Definitely do not measure it to the string on a conventional single cam bow. It will give you a false reading and hours of worthless tinkering...if there is such a thing...
OK, now you guys are going to drive me insane. I checked the tiller on my Liberty going to the bowstring, and its dead on when both limbs are locked down. However, when i run string from the e clips on the left side of the limbs, my top limb is 1/2" longer. Is this normal? Is it right when they are the same going to the bowstring, or did I tune my bow completely wrong? thanks.
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This is my quote and I do stand by it, however, I should have said that it can and does vary based on the single cam design. It definitely applies for the original single cam designs with the small idler wheel. In truth, I have not checked tiller on my Liberty so cannot confirm that your findings are the same as what I have on my bow.
However, considering my experiences with single cams of various designs I would fall back on the limb bolt characteristics. If both limbs are bottomed then your tiller should be set correctly. Equal turns out of the limb bolts should continue to yield the correct tiller in most cases.
However, when i run string from the e clips on the left side of the limbs, my top limb is 1/2" longer.
If you are saying, the tiller is 1/2" longer on the top limb, with limb bolts bottomed out, then something is definitely wrong. Either you're measuring incorrectly or one of the limbs is off. Make sure the limb is seated in the proper position in the limb pocket, and that it is the exact length of the lower limb.
I would not trust a measurement to the string on any single cam bow. I'd use the string over the axle method instead.
There is nothing 'wrong' with having a half inch positive tiller in the top limb. Static tiller, your tiller at brace height, is just a number. A starting point. The real thing you need to worry about... and where many people are missing out on getting the best shooting from their bow... is your DYNAMIC tiller set properly for your grip position and shooting style?
Draw the bow very slowly and pay strict attention to how the bow draws. It helps if you can put your sight pin on an object and see if you can keep it there throughout the draw. Does the bow draw back evenly, top to bottom? Or does the bow feel unbalanced on the draw, with one end trying to pull back sooner than the other? Do you have trouble holding the pin on the object or does the pin pull off, uncontrollably?
If the bow feels like the bottom limb is trying to pull back before the top limb, you need to take back off the bottom limb bolt. If the pin pulls down, you need to back off the bottom limb bolt. If the top limb is trying to pull back before the bottom limb, you need to back off the top limb bolt. If the pin pulls up, you need to back off on the top limb bolt.
You keep adjusting until the bow draws smoothly and evenly, top to bottom, and you can keep that pin on the object throughout the draw.
Your limb bolts probably will not be bottomed out when you're done. One might be, but not the other. Any possible tiny loss in arrow speed is more than offset by having a smoother draw, easier aiming and less noise and recoil.
I agree with Arthur.......if i understand him right. I use a thin string stretched from axle to axle, then measure on my Martin Fusion one cam. If I don't, the measurement is a little different and inaccurate.
Question for you guys
