Shooting an 03 pat Dually @ 61 1/4 lbs @ 29"
268-270 grain PSE comp pro with 100 gr tip=368-70
Peep and a loop
Rather shoot fixed blade and I haven't put anything on the string as far as quieting it down.
I usually hunt with a heavier arrow but if I can keep these and get a fixed to fly...well why not.
Anyone tell me how much wind shear I'll get? Thinking montec, muzzy or steelforce...not sure about the steelforce. Long head may give me some FOC issues, but I haven't tested them yet.
The options are...
Shoot a mechanical...never tried and heard some horror stories but I think I know what shots to take adn which ones to shy away from. I'd like to leave the shot options open for obvious reasons.
Go back to the heavier arrow. A bonus is the reduction in noise and increased efficiency, but I'll have to buy new ones and I'm cheap
I do it at 285, and I'm sure you can do it at 290 as others here have. What kind of rest are you shooting? A micro adjust will definetly make you're life easier! I don't have any experience with the Steelforce or Montec, but Muzzy's and Thunderhead's tune very easily for me.
You shouldn't have a problem if you shoot the right head and a well tuned rest (preferably a dropaway).
My buddy is shooting around 298 out of his 03 Sampson (80#) and he shoots muzzys and montecs on beman ics hunters. He also uses a MZE rest. He has no problems what so ever. They group great! He has shot Elk, Caribou, Turkeys, Deer, grouse, and a crow so far.
He just got a new 04 Patriot @ 85#'s shooting around 305 with an APA ultimate twister. He plans on useing the same heads.
A tuned bow is a tuned bow, doesn't matter if you're doing 5 or 500fps. The only problem with fixed heads(and actually not a problem with the heads themselves) is the fact that those who have trouble corrrectly setting up/ tuning a bow will have even more trouble with them at higher speeds. Another issue is that many will choose a underspined arrow to gain that speed, and a fixed blade head will magnify this fault and people wonder why they cannot get them to tune so simply blame the head. Remember that to get 290 out of a hunting bow you are generating some serious draw force, so a super light arrow will not always be the optimal choice due to it's lighter spine--I personally do not draw heavy poundage anymore or shoot super light arrows for hunting-- nor do I care what the arrow does thru a chrono when it comes to hunting. All I care about is that it goes exactly where it is supposed to,(quietly!) and does it without fishtailing or planing out for 20 yds before it recovers from paradox, because if it is carrying a fixed blade head on the end of it and it does this-- well, forget it, you are not going to hit anything anyway. Choose the correct arrow, pull what is comfortable for you, choose a reputable tried-and-true fixed blade broadhead, tune them to perfection, and go hunting. Put the chrono away until the next "fastest bow contest" comes around.JMHO Pinwheel 12
I'm with ya on the spine. I shoot the 300's @ 27 3/4" which, according to all the charts is overspined by a bunch.
I do shoot TT shakey hunter as well and I think it's pretty well tuned. I know the cams are on and bare shafted to bullet, fletched shaft rode straight through as well but when I tune for groups at 40 I wind up with just a little left-high tear through the paper...could this be a symptom of overspine?
Anyway, I guess I'll just strap on the B heads and give it a whirl and see where I hit.
A tuned bow is a tuned bow, doesn't matter if you're doing 5 or 500fps. The only problem with fixed heads(and actually not a problem with the heads themselves) is the fact that those who have trouble corrrectly setting up/ tuning a bow will have even more trouble with them at higher speeds. Another issue is that many will choose a underspined arrow to gain that speed, and a fixed blade head will magnify this fault and people wonder why they cannot get them to tune so simply blame the head. Remember that to get 290 out of a hunting bow you are generating some serious draw force, so a super light arrow will not always be the optimal choice due to it's lighter spine--I personally do not draw heavy poundage anymore or shoot super light arrows for hunting-- nor do I care what the arrow does thru a chrono when it comes to hunting. All I care about is that it goes exactly where it is supposed to,(quietly!) and does it without fishtailing or planing out for 20 yds before it recovers from paradox, because if it is carrying a fixed blade head on the end of it and it does this-- well, forget it, you are not going to hit anything anyway. Choose the correct arrow, pull what is comfortable for you, choose a reputable tried-and-true fixed blade broadhead, tune them to perfection, and go hunting. Put the chrono away until the next "fastest bow contest" comes around.JMHO Pinwheel 12
I know the cams are on and bare shafted to bullet, fletched shaft rode straight through as well but when I tune for groups at 40 I wind up with just a little left-high tear through the paper...could this be a symptom of overspine?
It's not uncommon for a well tuned bow to keyhole an arrow a little bit thru paper. Some guys paper tune specifically for a bit of high left tear because they've found that when they're done with fine tuning, that's the exact tear they get.
Fine-tuned at over 300 fps with my light arrows at up to 50 yards and still get perfect bullet holes. Like PW12 said, it's all in proper tuning - of the bow, arrow, and archer.
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