If I understand this correctly, in order to group tune I would shoot a group of arrows at 20 yards then shoot a group at a further distance, say 40 yards. If my arrows at 40 are hitting left of my 20 yard arrows, then I should move my rest to the right and shoot another group until they both group together. Am I right? But, my problem is, why would I move my rest if I just got done paper tuning it and I am shooting a perfect bullet hole? Wouldn't this mess with my paper tune? I have always moved my sight to follow my arrows when sighting in a bow and after I paper tuned. Not move my rest to match my pins. You have to move the sight a good distance to affect a 20 yard shot, but move it only a little bit for a 40 yard shoot. So if I move my sight to the left to match the 40 yard shot, my 20 yard shots don't change. And after a couple GOOD shots both my short and longer distance shots are hitting the same spot. Am I wrong here? What am I missing? Thanks for the replies.
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Deer , what you are talking about is "walkback" or " plumbob" tuneing . The method and way you describe moveing your sight sounds like you are doing it corectly to me .
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Deer902, Before coming on here.......I tuned exactly like you !! But ,at least with me, when I finally made that comprimise with my pins that worked at 20 and 40 ...............my arrows would still be left at 60 ! Get it at 60 and it would be off at 20 !!
And I personally could never get fixed blades to hit wiith field tips tuning that way either !
I decided to follow the advise from guys here and first ........spun my arrows.........then paper tuned them.........then group tuned ! And now my arrows hit dead on at 20........40.........60+ .........as long as I do my part ! And fixed blades shoot with my field points !
I won't even bother checking with paper now that I have it group tuned !! I really don't believe anymore that paper tuning is the end all of tuning ..............rather it's just a beginning to me from now on !!
I haven't shot past 40 yards, which could be why I thought I had it right. But if I group tune a field tip and a Thunderhead at 20, 30 and 40 yards would I be acclomplishing the same thing?
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This is a very hard long process with many ways to do it. Most work some don't. Here is how i do it. All of your arrows at all distances should hit in the same left/right spot. Here is how i check my center shot of my bow. Start at 10 yards shot on arrow. Then 15,20,25,30,35. Make sure you know which arrow you shot at what distance( I try to put mine in a line short shots high). Discard all bad shots(go pull the arrow are shot it again right away). Normally i do this twice before i move the rest. Okay now what does this do? If you make a C shape. Close and far arrows are to the right. The middle distances are to the left. This means your rest is to the left/out to far. Move it in and do the same test. If you have a backwards C Close and far arrows are left, and middle arrows are right, this means your rest is right/in to far. Give it a try it only takes a couple of minutes to try it. I find its the only good way to get center shot right.
Now what if i have to move my arrow rest and i don't get a bullet whole in paper? This is the spine of the arrow causing the tear. If your nock is tearing to the left (I would assume you are a release shooter) This means the arrow is stiff. Now you can add weight to the point on the arrow, add draw wieght to the bow, go to longer arrows, or go to weaker spined arrows (The arrows might me so stiff that you cannot fix it with the others). If the nock is tearing to the right, this means the arrow is weak. To "Stiffin" the arrow, take off draw wieght, shorten the arrows, decrease point wieght.
Once i get a bullet hole i shot bare shafts to 20 yards. If they (bare shafts) hit low lower then the fletched shafts, either lower the nock or raise the arrowrest. Opposite for high bare shafts. If they are left they are weak, see above for how to fix a weak arrow. If they are right they are stiff. Once they are shooting with the fletched shafts at 20 move to 30 then 40. There are some things to remember about arrow spine. It canges with the weather. You are going to need to add wieght to the bow for cold conditions (Like hunting from November to the end of season) I have to add about half a turn to each limb bolt. Just a thing to keep in mind. I really think this method works. Give it a try. It takes 10 minutes to shot the walk back. If you see a C shape of either sort the rest is off, if they are straight you are good to go. Reply if you have any questions? Good luck hoped i helped.
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I'd never make a move on one arrow. You can't always call a bad shot. I go by the rule that one arrow could be an accident. Two arrows in the same spot could be a fluke. Three arrows in a group at the same spot is a trend. So, I shoot a minimum of 3 arrows at each distance and go for group. Then I adjust to move the groups into the same line.
You have to stay within the distance where you're confident of shooting good groups. It that's only 40 yards for you, then that's fine. Being able to shoot tight groups at 60 yards only means you can dial the tune in to that much of a finer edge.
I totally agree with the others here. Paper tuning is only a tool to get you in the right direction. I typically use paper tuning to get close to a bullet hole and while I'm there, test for fletch contact. From there, group tune, group tune, group tune. I usually won't make any changes till I shoot at least 3 or 4 groups of arrows and look at the groups I get. Then you can safely say that you need to make adjustments to get the groups lined up. One arrow can always be an accident...which is usually my case.
Group tuning question?
