bloodtrail1

Question: I bought some Carbon Express CXL 250 shafts. Today I picked up some of the new Carbon express adjustable weight target points to fit these shafts. What glue would a person use to put these in? I dont want to super glue them in, in the event the tip gets beat up and I have to replace it! If its super glued in and the aluminum tip gets beat up say on a insert hidden in a 3-D target, I dont want to trash the arrow! But I need a glue that will not let the insert/target point pull out in a target!

bowjunkie

I use Goat Tuff glue. IT holds well and will come loose with a little heat. It works great on my CXLs.

bloodtrail1

Im going to use the Bondini Gel super glue that I have been using. I learned today on another forum, that to remove a super glued in insert what you do is: Take nock off, drop in a drill bit that just fits, then hang on to the arrow tight and give it a couple good swings! The weight of the drill bit smacking on the backside of the insert pops the insert out!! I tried it out on a carbon express 200 that I have been shooting, and works!! So, I will super glue the CXL target points in and if I need to remove, no problem!

Pinwheel 12

Don't want to be a bearer of bad news, but on another board I visit there have been two shooters that have recently had the CXL's blow up on them at launch. Luckily no-one has been hurt so far, but it is something to keep an eye on. Don't know if these are simply isolated cases, or if there is a problem, but thought you should be aware of it. E-mail me if interested and I'll tell you which board and thread to go to to read the comments. Safe shooting! Pinwheel 12

bloodtrail1

I also read on that other board about the CXL blowing up upon launch! Well....Im thinking now it may not be worth the chance of that happening to me! I also seen another person say the same thing happened to him and his arrow was on its FIRST flight of its life! So...Mine will be on ebay tonight when I get home!! I guess I will stick with carbon express 3-D selects and stay clear of thin walled CXL's!! Or...does anyone think these instances were flukes?

NorthJeff

There are many, many, people using these shafts. Not to say they are totally safe-I don't know-the CXL 350's have proven they are, as well as the CX100's, 200's, and 300's, that have been out for over 4 years. One of the ones that blew up was at the cronograph-the poster said he didn't know what happened-arrows blow up quite often when they HIT the cronograph-could have happened.

Also, the 2213 bushing people are using exposes a little of the carbon surrounding the bushing-doesn't sound like a great fit to me. Mel Shrewsberry from Shrewd Pecision Products is coming out with bushing in the next week. I'd either stick with a custom fit bushing, or the nock supplied with the arrow. Imagine if the bushing is being driven forward, with only a portion of the wall of the arrow to push against.

Some people using the arrows are using the quick set super-glue purchased at hobbie stores. Most super glues can be melted, by heating the point, to remove the point. This is what guys are doing.

Guys have told me they aren't holding up as well as the Linejammers, with more cracks forming upon bushing impact, but they look for cracks and don't shoot them at a single spot target-like any other arrow.

I heard the argument of splinter tainted meat concerning ACC's-but I still like those as well. My 250's are still on order, and will remain on order. Looking forward to getting them!

Jeff...U.P. of Michigan.

bloodtrail1

Northjeff: Good point about the Uni-Bushing being a potential problem area! I have uni-bushings installed on mine!! I think I will remove them(if I can? I hope!! super glued in!) Then just use nocks that came with them for awhile, till better option comes out!

Pinwheel 12

Bloodtrail, you might have just hit on part of the problem if you are folowing everyone elses' lead. Superglue and carbon do not mix well, in fact superglue crystalizes certain materials and makes them much more brittle. (not wise to use any on Fast-flight or other string material, either!) I always use a Quality 24 hr epoxy when installing components on carbons. Never heat a carbon shaft itself either, it weakens it tremendously and really is why I also don't recommend hot melt for carbon applications.Too many people will get the point they are installing too hot, and this wrecks the overall composition of the individual process used to make the shaft strong.


I've been installing the uni's on most all carbons for my customers, and have not yet had any problems. My point is that with certain shafts, there is that extra layer of carbon wrap that is bigger than the bushing. Even with them, no problems as yet. Most of the time that extra width is simply an outer camo wrap, anyway. With the field shafts and regular black ICS hunter-type shafts, the extra camo wrap is not there, and they are even with the bushing. Most shafts these days are basically the same when it comes to this.

I have witnessed failures of all manufacturers' carbon shafts at one time or another, but not due to the bushings, and IMO the bushings only help to avoid loose nocks and/or cracked shaft ends, both of which can be much more hazardous if unnoticed. The bottom line is that with pure carbons one must be much more careful, they are either OK or broken, and alot of times it's hard to tell the difference until it's too late.Be careful out there! Good shooting, Pinwheel 12

Edited by - Pinwheel 12 on 02/14/2002 14:06:46

davidc

Finger nail glue works the b

bloodtrail1

I emailed game tracker on the CXL issue and a guy named Jeff called me back at work and gave me the whole run down. Basically it seems the failed shaft reports have been arrows which had pre-existing damage, then broke of course on the following shot(s) and just like pinwheel said the WRONG glue was being used on components like super glue, and hot melt. Both of which the man at gametracker said are NO-NO'S! So...being I super glued in my uni-bushings, I just cut 3/8" off the shafts to get rid of the uni-bushing and "infected" shaft, and re-glued in new bushings with 24hr epoxy! Now I should be good to go!!