I've been thinking about buying some Gold Tip XT 5575's. What easton components can be used in those shafts for target? Do ACC nibbs fit in them? Do they accept a unibushing and nock or does a regular Easton nock fit in them? Thanks ahead for your help.
To the best of my knowledge, you can use any component that will fit in an Easton uni-nock adapter. This provided you use the proper adapter for the arrow size. Not sure of the correct size for the two shafts mentioned. 2117 maybe?
I use gold tip 3-d pro's, and i use goldtips unibushing.
I suggest you use the gold tip bushing, they fit nice and snug , with no slop.
They except easton's g-nock.
If you do not want to use a bushing, easton supernocks, fit fine.
I don't like the goldtip lock nock, they are too easy to tighten too much, and do damage to the shaft.
If you deceide to use easton nibbs or bushings, acc 3-60 size will fit.
__________________
Pope and Young club
Massachusetts Bowhunters Association Life Member
Hoyt Vulcan
You can use the Easton 'G' --nock, small groove about 6.25 g along with the Gold Tip Ultralight nock adaptor (unibushing). You will however have to glue the bushing but DO NOT glue the G--nock.
I made the mistake of buying the Easton A/C/C unibushings. They're sloppy in the XT 7595's. Then I went with the Gold Tip unibushings and as bbahunter said, they fit as they should. I threw in an Easton G nock and this seems to be a good setup.
Yep, the 3-60 bushings do fit sloppy, because Goldtip uses a slightly larger ID (.246..and their ID tolerances are a bit goofy to begin with). The 3-60s work great in most other carbons, but not Goldtip.
The Goldtip bushings are good except for one big problem IME. They are threaded to accept a weight pin. Unfortunately because of this the G-nock gets threaded in the process of installation..this makes them tough to adjust on occasion but even more so tends to produce a nock that when hit hard breaks off completely flush w/ the bushing, and you can't get the rest of the nock out of the damn thing...which is a real PITA.
__________________
Shoot what you like and have confidence in - don't get wrapped up in popularity contests
Produce a nock that when hit hard breaks off completely flush w/ the bushing, and you can't get the rest of the nock out of the damn thing...which is a real PITA.
Jeff--I hear ya, but try using a tiny drill and open up a hole, then use a small bolt extractor and the remaining g-nock comes out easily--but your're right it is a PITA.
Produce a nock that when hit hard breaks off completely flush w/ the bushing, and you can't get the rest of the nock out of the damn thing...which is a real PITA.
Jeff--I hear ya, but try using a tiny drill and open up a hole, then use a small bolt extractor and the remaining g-nock comes out easily--but your're right it is a PITA.
That's how I've managed to get out a few (actually using an old nock-out tool that has a small threaded screw)..and it does work, but I've also had the rest of the nock in there so tight I never could get it out. Then you either have to get the bushing out somehow or ditch the shaft. PITA indeed Best solution I gues is not to shoot groups, or shoot last at the stake
__________________
Shoot what you like and have confidence in - don't get wrapped up in popularity contests
Then you either have to get the bushing out somehow or ditch the shaft. PITA indeed Best solution I gues is not to shoot groups, or shoot last at the stake
Jeff, if it's that hard to turn, another thing to do is with the bolt extractor inserted, I use a small blow torch and heat the 'extractor' (stay away from the shaft--as you know) 45 secs to a minute, then holding the extractor in a vise grip rotate the bushing out--the heat softens the glue and makes it alot easier to come out.
Hey not all the time you can shoot last, there's others who want a crack at your nocks too ya know---the reason I like mine 'black'--makes it a little harder to 'see'.