arrow trajectory setup

Grunters Anonymous · 09-26-2003, 01:12 PM

I' m new to archery and really enjoy it. I want to try hunting with it but I' ve heard from virtually everyone that broadheads shoot differnt than field tips. I' ve got matching broadheads (125gr) for the arrowshafts but do I need to re-sight in the bow (meaning changing the sights, etc.)?

Right now I can get 2-3 inch groups at 20, 25 & 30 yards. 35 yards is still good usually but then 40 yards seems to be different, I can' t get better than about a 6 inch group from that distance.

I NEED HELP!

Extra info...

I' m shooting a 65lb bow with Easton 2275' s and a trigger release.

Rangeball · 09-26-2003, 01:39 PM

Are those groups with your broadheads or field tips?

If broadheads, make sure you' re sighted to the point of impact and hunt. Keep practicing and concentrate on your form and over time those groups will shrink.

If field tips, you need to shoot your broadheads, ESPECIALLY if they are fixed heads. Many funky things can and do happen once they are screwed on and flung. The woods is a bad place to learn this.

UpNorth · 09-26-2003, 03:35 PM

What broad heads are you shooting? I would definetly sight it in with the broadheads. Their are several good fixed blade and mechanical broadheads that will fly as true as your fieldpoints. Do a seach on broadheads and you will find abundant reading. My opinion is don' t skimp and buy cheap broadheads as they USUALLY do not fly as true as others.

Good Luck

Grunters Anonymous · 10-02-2003, 09:19 AM

Hi guys - sorry I' ve been away for a bit and just got notice that you both had replied.... and thank you for your willing help!

Rangeball - the groups I mentioned were with field tips. I had broadheads but didn' t use them because I was afraid of ruining the blades and/or losing them in the round bales behind the target (paper). I have since decided to confidently sacrifice 3 of my six broadheads for practicing

and was getting about the same performance but kept leading to the right of the target. I decided to crank up the draw weight to the max (70lbs.) and shot a few more arrows and they were hitting almost dead centre on the target - I darn near landed one arrow on top of the other arrow!

UpNorth - I' m using WASP broadheads, which after shooting a bit with friends and family I noticed that alot of them had the same broadhead assembly although none of them can recollect what they are... older bows that have sat a lot!

CBM SC · 10-02-2003, 11:26 AM

GA, You got to shoot those broadheads even if it cost you a few bucks to put new blades on....or re-sharpen them yourself. But that is a huge reason for people wounding deer !!

Arthur P · 10-02-2003, 02:06 PM

Yep, you definitely need to shoot the broadheads you actually intend to hunt with and replace/resharpen the blades before hunting. You don' t want to find out one of your designated hunting heads is a dud when you trigger the shot at a deer and see the arrow doing loop-dee-loops over the deer' s back.

Get a block of marine styrofoam or one of the commercial broadhead targets to practice with. Then concentrate more on how good your shooting is from point blank out to 30 yards for this season. Let the longer stuff wait until you' ve got some more experience under your belt.

Many years ago I decided the longer stuff can wait until Hades freezes over. If I can' t get within 30 yards, then I haven' t earned the right to draw my bow. But that' s just my old fashioned (or so I' ve been told) approach to bowhunting.

TFOX · 10-02-2003, 10:00 PM

Arthur, you, old fashioned. NO, say it ain' t so. Can' t be.

Everyone is giving good advise,check the broadheads and if they don' t hit the same as field points,either move your sights or learn about fine tuning and for a lot of people,the broadheads and fieldpoints hit relatively the same.Not an absolute necessity but does work for some of us.