C- like I' ve said, I' ve been wrestling with carbon arrows pretty much since this ICS stuff came along. That' s why I' ve been so impressed with the ones Jeff sent me. AND I' ve done the speed thing. AND I' ve done the single cam thing. AND I' ve done the release thing. AND fiddling around with all that junk is what sent me back to trad. I' d rather be shooting than trying to keep all that stuff adjusted.
Jersey, in this instance, it' s not the arrows as much as it is your bow' s tune. I' ve nothing but trouble getting broadheads to shoot well with carbon (until a few days ago), but never with field points.
Your string and cables should be settled in now where they will stay... for awhile. Strings and cables stabilize somewhat but never quit creeping. They will continue to get longer and longer until the day you replace them and start all over again. Some are better, some are worse. Factory Hoyt strings are in the worse category.
Step 1. Go get the string and cables adjusted.
Step 2. Head over to Easton' s website and download their tuning guide.
Step 3. Follow the instructions in the guide. I' m more favorable to the bare shaft test than I am to paper testing.
That should get you sorted out (or totally confused

).
About the arrows, I' ve been shooting Easton aluminum arrows for a long time. For sheer accuracy and easy tuning, there is nothing better. They do bend and wear out, but if you hit what you aim at, you don' t bend all that many. (Whether a lot of guys believe it or not, carbon arrows warp and wear out too.) With a release, I' d go with XX78' s because of the tuneable nock system. That nock system is also available in XX75 on Gamegetter III' s and a little bit easier on the wallet.
If you' re really froggy and don' t mind spending $140 a dozen for arrows, ACC' s are nice. VERY nice. Some of best benefits of carbon combined with the best benefits of aluminum.
But for now, I' d not worry too much about the arrows and just concentrate on getting the bow tuned.