I have another question for all of you bow hunters/target-shooters out there.
I know this question has been asked multiple times, but I would really like some personal input.
I currently shoot at a 28/29" draw length. I measured myself using both the wingspan divided by 2.5 and the arrow measurement methods. I found myself having trouble drawing the bow unless I did it at a strange angle.
I decided to do two things. First, drop my draw weight -in order to do this, I had to purchase a new bow since my current one had a peak weight of 70#. I also decided to shoot at a lower draw length.
I found a 27", 50# bow on ebay, the bidding was ending very soon so I bid, without even thinking. Instead I just read the info on it, condition, manufacturer (PSE), etc.
My question is, how well will I be able to handle a 27" draw? Is it something that is easy to get used to? I was told multiple times that a shorter draw length than what you should be using is better than a longer one.
Also, the bow is a PSE "The Beast" ended up paying what I think is a fair price for it. If it says on the sticker that the draw length is 27", how much can it be adjusted, if any? The cams look like older synergy cams, but I may be wrong.
The draw length is not going to make a difference, it's all about draw weight.. if you are a 29 a 27 in. DL. is going to be too short, no way you get have proper form.
The best way to tell the proper draw weight is to sit on the floor with your bow, now aim to the side that you hold your bow with. Aim straight and pull back the bow back, you should be able to pull the bow back without having to aim up.. when you can do this with moving your bow hand up that is the right DW. You can either adjust up or down on your draw weight to see what poundage you should be pulling.
I hope this helps.
The draw length is not going to make a difference, it's all about draw weight.. if you are a 29 a 27 in. DL. is going to be too short, no way you get have proper form.
The best way to tell the proper draw weight is to sit on the floor with your bow, now aim to the side that you hold your bow with. Aim straight and pull back the bow back, you should be able to pull the bow back without having to aim up.. when you can do this with moving your bow hand up that is the right DW. You can either adjust up or down on your draw weight to see what poundage you should be pulling.
I hope this helps.
P.M. me if I'm confusing you.
I see what you mean. I am a tad confused on the sitting down method you posted, though.
Honestly, I'm fine shooting with a strange form for the time being (in the future I might just change out the modules). As I mentioned in another thread, I have been having shoulder pain and a lot of it attributed to both the draw weight and my shoulder being in an awkward position (my doctor has mentioned that the pain will increase the further back I stretch my arm, I showed him how a bow is drawn and he said that is what could be causing the pain).
So, in the end there is absolutely no way I can get used to a draw length that is 1-2" shorter than what I should be shooting?
James all sitting on the floor does is take your legs away from the picture and allow your back and shoulders to work. This is a true way to figure out what draw weight you should be shooting, works everytime. As I get older (I'm 62) I do this every year, I was shooting 70# DW five years ago, now I'm at about 58 #DW comfortable.
What type of release are you using? Maybe using a Truball Beast II might help you some. This is suppose to help with shorter draw people get a little more draw legnth.
Would keep you from pulling your arm back so far.. not much but some.
I see what you mean Rev. I'll have to give it a shot when I get home.
Thanks a ton Krypt. I usually prefer finger shooting, but I'll consider the Truball release. It's a bit on the pricey side so I'll have to check out the reviews and see if it would help me in my situation.