I was out in the yard yesterday and I was shooting my bow on level ground, at 10 yards. I was putting the feild points anywhere I wanted them. Then I switched to my broadheads and noticed that I was shooting about an inche low at 10 yards. Moved out to 15 yards and it was 2 inches low. 20 yards, 3 inches low. But I was wondering that since I am in a 16' stand during season, will this compensate for the broadheads hitting low everytime? Or should I move my sights befor season starts...
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you should sight in from your stand if thats where you plan to be.
as far as drop with the broadhead...climb up in the stand and shoot the cube with the broadhead and see how far off it is.or use an angle range finder and see
what the diff in height is. might need to retune.
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Last edited by halfbakedi420; 08-12-2011 at 12:31 PM.
This could probably be cured by raising your rest, or lowering your nocking point, very slightly, like less that 1/16" inch. Then shoot to see if they are hitting the same spot, then re-sight if necessary.
When shooting from an elvated stand, keep your form as it is on level ground, then bend at the waist to get your bow on target. Don't drop the bow arm to get on target.
This could probably be cured by raising your rest, or lowering your nocking point, very slightly, like less that 1/16" inch. Then shoot to see if they are hitting the same spot, then re-sight if necessary.
When shooting from an elvated stand, keep your form as it is on level ground, then bend at the waist to get your bow on target. Don't drop the bow arm to get on target.
i understand what you are saying, but thats not what he is asking.
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There is no reason other than the bow being slightly out of tune for the BHs to hit a different POI than the FT. Unless the BHs are heavier than the FTs. Make sure both FTs and BHs are the same weight. Sight in with the FTs and tune the rest until the BHs hit the same POI.
Shooting from an elevated postion will not change the POI as long as you maintain the same "triangle points" of anchor, sight and rest(grip). To do this you must bend at the waist and not stand vertical and lower the bow.
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Also, you shouldn't have to compensate much if anything on distance with newer compound bows in a treestand. Say you're 20 feet up in a tree with a deer 20 yards or 60 feet from the base. By using the Pythagorean Theorem, which is easier to do than it sounds, you'll discover the distance the path your arrow would travel is 21 yards. So a one yard difference. And its not that much more at 30 or even 40 yards. So compensation will be minimal in most cases. I'd be more concerned about shot angle/placement and practicing at that height so you can see how the arrow will penetrate the deer and its vitals versus shooting at your 3d target on the ground.
One final note, I'd make sure you try a few practice sessions with BHs before you start tuning. Sometimes the switch can throw you mentally a bit and you're changing your anchor point. Or you have an off day and are dropping your arm or torquing your hand. So I would give it a few sessions before starting tuning.
Elevation question
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