I believe its time to adjust my cam timing. Let me explain what I' m feeling. As I come to full draw, the bottom cam feels like it rolls over first. After a little more draw, the bottom cam is still rotating in the valley as the top cam drops off. After the top has rolled over, there is a bit more rotation, then they both appear to hit the wall close together. While the 2 cams appear to drop at different times, they feel like they hit the wall at the same time. Or close to it. Does this sound possible? All of my specks are still very close to factory. A to A is still right on. Brace may be a 1/16 under, if that. Tiller is off by maybe a 1/32.
Nub,
You may very well need to slightly re-synch your cams, but I gotta ask.........when you are seeing what you are describing are you drawing your bow with a release or are you simply messing around drawing with your fingers?
The reason i ask is that all cam synch should be checked either using your release, or even better using a tuning board or something that draws your bow in one spot directly behind your arrow nock......when you draw a bow (especially one with a pretty hard string angle at full draw) it' s easy to get your fingers to " reel in" more string at either end by applying more of the force to different fingers making it appear that one cam is faster or slower than the other.
I drew back multiple times with my release. For the record, since I only have 2 fingers to draw with, I can feel it with my fingers too. One above the nock, one below.
nub, I' ve synched mine by looking in a mirror while drawing the bow. You will be able to see the cams as they hit the stops. It' s very hard to feel a small out of synch condition, consistently. Mine shot high & low when out of synch, depending on whether I pulled both cams to the wall or just one. Once re-synched the arrows were getting wrecked again.[:@]
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Phil.
" Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot." [:-]
BOWTECH THERE IS NO EQUAL. JUST THE EQUALIZER.
I also se the mirror to see which is rolling over first. I draw the bow with an arrow on the string and using my release, just like I am going to shoot. While standing very close to the mirror I can see which cam is rolling over first and then I let down and go to the bow press. I usually only put in or take out 1/2 a twist at a time at the outboard axle pulleys, which makes it very easy to do. Then it' s back to the mirror to check and see what improvements have been made. When they hit at exactly the same moment, you will experience the BowTech Dually bliss
1. Set the timing as close as you can by eye (you don' t have put a micrometer on it; just get as close as you can)
2. Sight your bow in at twenty yards.
3. Put a piece of masking tape on your target butt horizontally. In a pinch, you can use the top edge of a target face.
4. Pull your bow into the wall as hard as you can and shoot arrow #1 at the tape.
On the next shot, creep forward to the front of the valley and shoot arrow #2 at the tape. You may need to re-shoot these shots a couple of times to rule out bad shots.
5. If your bow is in perfect time, both arrows will hit the tape or they will land on the same horizontal plane. (Level with the tape or on the tape)
If the " creep" shot hits HIGH, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the BOTTOM cam.
If the " creep" shot hits LOW, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the TOP cam.
Make very small, one or two turn, adjustments a time. A little twist goes a long way. You can fine-tune your timing by repeating the test at forty yards. If you make an adjustment at this distance do not turn your cable more that a half a turn at a time. Too much adjustment at this distance can send an arrow over the target butt or in the dirt. When you have completed the test, your bow will be in perfect time, and given that your other accessories are adjusted properly, your bow is as accurate as it can possibly be" .
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Don' t overthink it; you might outsmart yourself.
George Ryals IV
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Wear a full harness and tie yourself to your tree !
Take a kid hunting or fishing .
Nocks , the most overlooked component .
Well, since my mirror and press are miles apart, I' m gonna have to trust myself to feel the stops. Acually, I can watch both cams rotate during my draw.
Now then, does the late cam need to have the cable twisted? Or does string stretch cause one to hit early? Is it better to remove the cable from where it attaches to the cam, or limb? I would think cam to keep the harness the same. Should all measurements go back to factory spec when the cams are properly timed?
I think perhaps I' ll take a mirror with me. I just checked mine in the mirror and it appears a lot worse than what I' m feeling. When the bottom cam drops into the wall, it looks as though my top cable has about a 3/8 ths. inch gap between cable and wall. [:' (] I' m off to the club.[8D]
Nub.
If the bottom cam is hitting late then twist the cable at the top cam where it attaches to the limbs and visa versa if the top cam is hitting late.
But just put a 1/2 twist on each side of the split then check to see if they are hitting at the same time.
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Ignorance is content to stand still with its back to the truth.
Patriot cam timing
