Ddubyou, thanks. I' m trying to burn it in my brain as it has also cost me dealry in the past[:' (]. The buck was standing broadside, but foreward of my position. Which put it at a quartering away stance, but not a usual one. It' s kind of hard to explain. In a nutshell I should have aimed for where I wanted my arrow to exit. Not the traditional entry mark.
I' m also hoping some others might read it and avoid my mistake. Is it easy to understand? I have always hoped people didn' t hink I' m aiming for the poop shoot!!
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Disclaimer- I am not now, nor ever have been a paid bow technician, any advice given is just my opinion.
No one has come up with a reliable, repeatable way to actually measure spine- but it' s a myth that it goes away. Take good care of your arrows, and you' ll never need to worry about it.
Why don' t you just take them in to a pro-shop and have them tested. Most good shops should have a spine tester, especially if they also deal in traditional gear. Might be a small fee involved.
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No one has come up with a reliable, repeatable way to actually measure spine- but it' s a myth that it goes away. Take good care of your arrows, and you' ll never need to worry about it.
Thats not true at all. Any of it. Repeated use will effect spine. Take a piece of sheet metal and bend it back and forth a few times, will the metal weaken - of course. Same idea with arrows.
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"I do not Hunt animals to Kill them. I kill animals because I Hunt." Roger Rothhaar
Trial by fire. Number your arrows, and if you find one or more repeatedly not grouping with the others, chances are good the spine is the problem assuming all other variables are equal (finished length, fletch, point, weight, etc...)
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Genesis 27:3
"œNow then, get your weapons "” your quiver and bow "” and go out to the open country to hunt some wild game for me."
JoePA, My bowtec is still being a pain in my butt. I spent over 4 hours total yesterday trying to get it right again. I' ve let it sit for a week or so until my new arrows came in. (28.75" beman ics hunter 340' s
When they did I weighed each one, wrote down the measurement and then weighed each F/p and then matched any odd ball to each other.
When I went to shoot I was doing pretty good and even ruined one with a failed robinhood attempt (split the nock and shattered the end of the arrow). But then I noticed some arrows were flying goofy. Turns out they are whacking the lower mount of the Whisker Bisquit deluxe . ERRRRRGGG. Fletching contact on a WB!!!.
I was having to turn my arrows in order to avoid fletching contact with the cable.
It Looks like the ALPINE SLIDE GLIDE has stretched allowing for more cable issues than the stock cable slide. So I took it off and put the stock one back on. Still no good.
I raised my nocking point and moved the rest out and back trying to get bullets, but it just wasn' t going to happen. I even put the shakey hunter back on, but forgot about all the nock point moving around and could only achieve down tears.
So I put the WB back on and raised my nock point until I was blue in the face and then the sun went down and I went in. I left with a slightly outside the fletching 4 o' clock tear.
Tuning has never been this hard for me. Especially with a WB. My early assumption was the new holding bar was too big compared to the flat bottom one. Then I played with an arrow and realized true flight could be achieved through it without hitting anything.
Just for grins I pulled out my z-light and violla, bullet. Stepped back to 20 and plugged a good one.
There it is-Thanks for asking, I needed to vent.
I' m either just one slight move away from gettting close, or I' m way off on something.
My cam timing marks are perfect and I' m putting extra care into each shot not to torque the bow. but hard inside fletching contact keeps pushing the point to the right. I just dont know anymore...............
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Disclaimer- I am not now, nor ever have been a paid bow technician, any advice given is just my opinion.
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