so bh tunning has never, ever worked for me regardless of the bh (fixed bh's). during pig season i had to just dial in the bh and not get them to hit with my fp's. well trying to get ride of the rage bh's and move to the slicks i started over and did the following:
put on rest, QAD, and made it so that fork of the rest would hold my arrow at the holes were you screw in the rest on the side of the bow. i ensured the qad was set up correctly with the string attached to the down cable.
drew back the bow to where it felt comfortable and put the tube peep there
put on the sight
measured 3/8 inch above square on the string with the qad at full draw.
tried bare shaft tunning....no avail
did walk back tunning...got it good, then tried to shoot the bh at 20 and it was way off
went straight to bh tunning. at first i was hitting left and low. i adjust the rest and lower my knocking point.
finally get the bh and fp to hit good left to right, but the bh is still hitting low about 6"
continue to slowing move the knocking point and now i have it so i am hitting only about 1" low at 20 and 2" low at 30??
then i look at my knocking point and it is probably 3/8" BELOW square are full draw???? WTF!!!!
i can't figure this crap out, i understand it and make adjustments accordingly but it never pans out!....could it just be my bow or?????
specs just in case you don't remember: parker hunter mag extreme 67#, 100gr slick trick, 30" and 30" carbon express terminator lite 60/75
You're attaching your release directly to the string below the arrows nock aren't you?
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In that cast I would say that you are getting fletching contact. Get some red lip stick and smear it on the edges of your vanes. If you are getting contact then the lip stick will transfer to the part that they are hitting. I suspect that your rest isn't dropping fast enough either because the rests cable is too short causing it to stay up too long or you need to increase the spring tension inside the rest to get it to drop faster.
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"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency........... Blaming the prince of the fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of fools that made him their prince. The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Which QAD rest have you got? If it is the cheaper hunter model.... it is probably rebounding and contacting the bottom of your fletchings as they pass. If it is a LD or HD.... then this probably isn't the issue unless something is big time set up bad.
Either way... if your rest is set up even close to properly.... its getting out of the way plenty fast enough.
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Check your tiller. Start over you missed something, after setting up hundreds bows and bh tuned a lot of those, something is missing. I will try to post pics of the way I have done it, works.
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swamp - it is the cheaper hunter model, but if i had vane contact than shouldn't it be difficult to group fp and rage practice tips well 20-40 consistantly? if not, then i will have to look for the ld version.
3 children- that is a great picture and example, thank you. i do have a question though. in it you show that if the bh hits low you move the REST UP? when i looked online for bh tunning and in easton guide they suggest if the bh hits low to move the D-loop down?? am i doing it wrong and should i be moving the rest and not my d-loop? and i have my tiller setted correctly, but i am not able to check my timming and cam lean as i don't know how to do it without a bow press and by myself with a single cam bow?
Moving your rest up or the loop down both get the same results, making the front of the arrow point up higher. The QAD hunter model you have makes it a little harder to move the rest, but it can be done. Remember after you set your rest the arm at rest should be parallel to the bow shelf. That rest has been known to bounce back and touch fetching. Don't forget to get your loop back to the starting point 1/8"-3/8" from square. The arrow should be right in front of the hole in the riser, (berger hole)
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Non Typical Archery
Pro dealer for Trophy Blend Deer scent, Target Boy targets, Darton bows/crossbows, Specialty Archery Peeps, Carbomask, AMG, and many other brands.
so which is better lowering the d-loop or raising the rest? i went through lowering the d-loop and it lead me to having my knocking point about 1/8-3/8" BELOW the rest at full draw....I am afraid that raising the rest will cause the same thing?
the only thing i have not checked is my timing and cam lean (can't find good literature on how to check it with my one cam bow). Can this be checked by myself without a bow press? if so, how can i go about doing it?
so which is better lowering the d-loop or raising the rest? i went through lowering the d-loop and it lead me to having my knocking point about 1/8-3/8" BELOW the rest at full draw....I am afraid that raising the rest will cause the same thing?
the only thing i have not checked is my timing and cam lean (can't find good literature on how to check it with my one cam bow). Can this be checked by myself without a bow press? if so, how can i go about doing it?
Most one cams do not have straight or level nock travel. Usually there is a best position to have the cam in at brace. There should be a way to check it, and Parker could give you that info. You also might want to read Arthur P's sticky on tiller tuning at the top of the Technical page. When I was shooting single cam bows, I had better results with spring loaded shoot through designs (TM Hunter type) than with a drop away. JME
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bh tunning ? for the pro's
Check with Parker
