Go Back  HuntingNet.com Forums > Archery Forums > Technical
Arrows are too stiff? >

Arrows are too stiff?

Technical Find or ask for all the information on setting up, tuning, and shooting your bow. If it's the technical side of archery, you'll find it here.

Arrows are too stiff?

Old 03-07-2010, 02:52 PM
  #1  
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
Default Arrows are too stiff?

I was having trouble getting my BH and FP to hit well.

So I thought I would double check everything and for the first time check my spine. So I took apart the bow and was going back to step A. I put on my rest and loop. Shot the bow to get the 20yrd pin close to 20. I then shot two fletched arrows and two bare shaft arrows. The groups of each were about 1.5" at 20 yards. But the bare shafts were about 8" to the left of the fletched group. I repeated and got the same results! New to bare shaft tuning I read up on it and tried to use a 125gr head, but had the same results with the shafts hitting approx 6" to the left!

Parker Extreme Hunter mag.# 67 or 68, DL at 30" and arrows cut to 30". Carbon express terminator lite 60/75 arrows. 100gr tip and also tried the 125gr tip.

When I had purchased the arrows a while back some said I could be boderline underspine? Is there anything I can do besides by a new dozen arrows?

Last edited by JNTURK; 03-07-2010 at 04:59 PM.
JNTURK is offline  
Old 03-07-2010, 04:07 PM
  #2  
Spike
 
Dhoytan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: wi
Posts: 19
Default

did you try to move your rest in 1/32 incruments to see if that helps I did that today with my up and down and side to side just remember to make very small adjustments and document each move it will help you remember what you did. on my set up it did wonders but if it does not help at all, all I can think of is arrow stiffness or maybe fletching contact. good luck and try not to get to frustrated. p.s I also found out that I had some arrows that just would not group with the rest, I marked them and documented the patterns and used the good grouping ones to set up my bow helped a lot.
Dhoytan is offline  
Old 03-07-2010, 04:58 PM
  #3  
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
Default

Dhoytan---- I am new to "tuning" and everything I have read does not state to move your rest when checking for a good spine with your arrows? Note - I was not shooting broadheads, just fieldpoints.
JNTURK is offline  
Old 03-08-2010, 03:37 PM
  #4  
Spike
 
Dhoytan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: wi
Posts: 19
Default

with what I read to check for correct spine you use field points with and without fletcheing, make very small adjustments to your rest and or knock point to see if you can get the two to hit the same if you cannot your spine could be the cause, this is what I used to set mine up http://www.willowcreekarchery.com/Ea...ning_guide.pdf it worked good for me hope it helps. when I did mine I did the bare shaft test got them to hit good so I thought my BH should hit real good to but they did not they where about 4 to 6 inches high so I made very small adjustments to the rest and the two met in the same hole the bare shaft test will get you close to do the BH tuning.

Last edited by Dhoytan; 03-08-2010 at 03:48 PM.
Dhoytan is offline  
Old 03-08-2010, 05:16 PM
  #5  
Nontypical Buck
 
kwilson16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Burke, VA (raised in MD)
Posts: 1,096
Default

You could:

1. Try an 85 grain point
2. Cut the shaft(s) shorter
3. Take two turns off the draw weight. I would probably try this first and see if the bareshaft improves. If the bareshaft improves with reduced draw weight, then you are underspined.
kwilson16 is offline  
Old 03-08-2010, 08:27 PM
  #6  
Nontypical Buck
 
OHbowhntr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Posts: 2,531
Default

Originally Posted by JNTURK
Dhoytan---- I am new to "tuning" and everything I have read does not state to move your rest when checking for a good spine with your arrows? Note - I was not shooting broadheads, just fieldpoints.

Try a walk-back tune.....zero a pin at 20 yds, shooting a FLETCHED arrow w/ a fp, don't matter which, just get it zero'd. Then once zero'd, walk-back from 15 to 20 to 25 to 30 to 35 and to 40yds, shoot an arrow at each distance at a spot near the top of your target, each time using your 20yd pin, aim for that spot. I suspect you'll get a pattern that looks like this " / " If so, then the rest needs to be moved a small amount to the Right, if the grouping looks like this " \ ", then the rest needs to go LEFT, if it looks like this " | ", then the rest is centered, and you should be good to go. You need to FIRST make sure the rest is centered before trying whatever method of "tuning" you are going to try, and a quick, simple walk-back tune is about the easiest most effective was to accomplish that.
OHbowhntr is offline  
Old 03-09-2010, 08:33 PM
  #7  
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
Default

Originally Posted by OHbowhntr
Try a walk-back tune.....zero a pin at 20 yds, shooting a FLETCHED arrow w/ a fp, don't matter which, just get it zero'd. Then once zero'd, walk-back from 15 to 20 to 25 to 30 to 35 and to 40yds, shoot an arrow at each distance at a spot near the top of your target, each time using your 20yd pin, aim for that spot. I suspect you'll get a pattern that looks like this " / " If so, then the rest needs to be moved a small amount to the Right, if the grouping looks like this " \ ", then the rest needs to go LEFT, if it looks like this " | ", then the rest is centered, and you should be good to go. You need to FIRST make sure the rest is centered before trying whatever method of "tuning" you are going to try, and a quick, simple walk-back tune is about the easiest most effective was to accomplish that.
Thanks. Thats the answer I was looking for.

Quick question: I can usually group my arrows (FP) from 20-40 yards in a 3" group. So do I want my group at each yardage, 25,30,35,40 to have the 3" group around the vertical line? I did have the "/" type pattern when I did try walk back, however I did not group shoot at each yardage and only shoot one arrow. I was only off the vertical by around 4" or so. Would this mean my rest should be moved to the right some or because my usually grouping pattern is around 4" would it mean that I am ok where I am at?
JNTURK is offline  
Old 03-10-2010, 08:40 AM
  #8  
Nontypical Buck
 
OHbowhntr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Posts: 2,531
Default

Originally Posted by JNTURK
Thanks. Thats the answer I was looking for.

Quick question: I can usually group my arrows (FP) from 20-40 yards in a 3" group. So do I want my group at each yardage, 25,30,35,40 to have the 3" group around the vertical line? I did have the "/" type pattern when I did try walk back, however I did not group shoot at each yardage and only shoot one arrow. I was only off the vertical by around 4" or so. Would this mean my rest should be moved to the right some or because my usually grouping pattern is around 4" would it mean that I am ok where I am at?
Josh,
I'd generally do a walkback 2-3x, making sure I have that specific pattern, and then make my adjustments. If it's real close, then I'll sometimes just screw on some BH's and see what happens at 20yds, and adjust from there. A walkback is a simple semi-rough tuning method. Probably well enough for a guy just wanting to shoot mechanicals, and not worried about more "precision tuning," but a BH tune will get you almost as precise as anything, as you're adjusting the rest not only to the arrows, but also to YOU!!! Generally if you BH tune a bow, you'll find that when finished, you even shoot your FP's better. I actually know a handful of target shooters that will BH tune their target rigs for a "super-fine" tune on them. Not that they'll ever intend on shooting BH's out of them any other time, but it helps tweak just that much more to what they are trying to accomplish.
OHbowhntr is offline  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:44 AM
  #9  
Nontypical Buck
 
Sniper151's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cornwall, Pa.
Posts: 1,720
Default

An oversplined arrow can be tuned, but this sounds like a rest adjustment to the right for correct center shot. With an arrow on the rest and string, sight down the arrow and see if the tip is aligned with the string. Small adjustments to the right should correct the problem.
Sniper151 is offline  
Old 03-12-2010, 08:55 AM
  #10  
Nontypical Buck
 
OHbowhntr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Posts: 2,531
Default

Originally Posted by Sniper151
An oversplined arrow can be tuned, but this sounds like a rest adjustment to the right for correct center shot. With an arrow on the rest and string, sight down the arrow and see if the tip is aligned with the string. Small adjustments to the right should correct the problem.
Agreed, and it's far easier than an UNDERspined arrow in my experience. I've set up 3 bows that shot RH's w/ moderately overspined arrows, and would put FP's and BH's on pert near the samoe spot. All 3 were 50-60# bows set in the upper 50's shooting LONG .340 spine arrows.
OHbowhntr is offline  

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.