RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
Super
It is a matter of personal preference, but unless you have always used a " tie-on" nocking-point, I would not use one.
Unless done correctly, a tie-on can be notorious for slipping unless you really bind the nock tightly and securely to the bowstring. Then, when your string begins to creep "¦. which changes your nock height, or your arrow tuning requires you change your nock height, the task of undoing and retying each time will be daunting.
RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
C903,
I find ease of changing the position of a tie-on nocking point, one of it' s greatest advantages. You want to tie it tightly, but still be able to " thread it" up or down the string. With the proper tention on the knots, it will not move while shooting with a string loop, yet will still twist around the string with enough force from your grip. One of the keys is to alway have an arrow nocked when drawing. I always put a dab of white-out just above my nocking point so I can tell if it' s moved. If the string has crept, it' s only a couple seconds to twist the nocking point up or down the string. I can' t imagine using a brass nocking point, because of the ease of changing a tie-on one.
RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
Straight
I know shooters who use " tie-on" nocks and swear by them. I do not trust anything you can you can easily move by hand force.
On certain critical accessories, I will give up speed for reliability and durability.
I like this setup.
The system does not apply " fouling" pressure to the nock, keeps the nock aligned, and can be tightly secured to string without cutting into the string.
RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
C903,
I agree with the reliability issue vs. speed. The key is to tie them tight enough, that they can' t be moved easily. After shooting a tie-on nock for a few years now, I' ve yet to have one move even a smidgeon, which is easily checked with my dab of white-out. If I had found reliability to be an issue, I wouldn' t use them. I' d be more worried about those screws falling out of that nock in your picture.
What' s really great, is that if something happens in the field that causes you to have to move your nocking point, they are easily constructed and can be moved without a tool. Other positives are: There is less string vibration (and noise) when you reduce the weight of the nock, you gain a small amount of speed if you break or lose one and you can tie a new one within a few minutes.
I wouldn' t recommend tying on your first one, the day before going on a hunting trip, but learning it now in the offseason, gives one plenty of time to learn how to tie a good one.
RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
Screws are not going anywhere. They are locked in with medium adhesive " Loc-Tite." Nock height is measured from static point and marked. If it does move, or the string creeps, but the change is not great, I just dial in the difference on my micro-adjust GFK rest.....in the field.
Or, if change occurs or is noticed while in the field, and nock has to be moved I just reach into my butt pack, whip out my handy-dandy little Phillips head driver, my little plastic bottle of " Loc-Tite," my sewing tape measure; unlock the screws, adjust the height and measure for correct height from my designated static reference point, reapply some " Loc-Tite," and tighten screws. Takes about 10-15 minutes max. Can be back in the hunt and know the bow will shoot where it was shooting before repair.
Do not have to be concerned about D-Loop being extremely tight on string. Loop cannot squeeze past edges of aluminum " Speed Loop."
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