Anchor position

[mahoningbuck]

I was out shooting today and I had some different flight patterns than normal along with the angle the arrows were hitting the Glendel. Anyways, I was thinking that my anchor point may be pulling to one side creating at release some bad effect? It was the only thing I could think of.........can this cause poor arrow flight? I was hitting my intended area but I was running all the possible problems in my head. Can a poor anchor point (pulling one way or another) cause poor arrow flight?

[BGfisher]

It sure can. Most often the problem is not so much with the bow, but how it fits the shooter. And it's usually too long of a draw length and/or too much draw weight. Anchor points are dependent on the draw length of the bow, draw length being the most important aspect of proper fit for compound bows. Too many guys, in a quest for speed and/or not knowing any better, are shooting a couple inches longer than they need to to achieve good accuracy.

I notice that you list the draw length at 30". Do you really require one that long? A general consensus is to measure your wingspan and divide that by 2.5 to get you in the ballpark. Then have a bow that is adjustable for draw length on top of that. If you want to play around and get the bow to fit you to a Tee then you can play around with modules and string cable twisting to find just where the bow aims the most solid. Some of us do that and find that the best draw length is not some even number like 29" or 30", but something like 28 3/4" or 29 5/8". Some odd figure, but when you find that sweet spot you'll find the bow shoots a lot more accurately, or put another way, it shoots very accurately with less effort on your part.

[mahoningbuck]

I did the math and it should be 29.5 for the draw. Would a 1/2 and inch cause a pull on way or another at full draw?

[BGfisher]

1/2" too long is way worse than 1/2" too short, by leaps and bounds. That being said, doing the math is one thing. That gets you close; some place to start. Now, do you use a string loop? If so this stretches you out that much more. A release that is not adjusted short enough stretches you out even more. And how do you know your bow is really set for a 30" draw? Have you actually measured it or are you just assuming the factory has it right? Don't count on it--most draw long.

Do you get what I'm saying? It's not just about the draw length of the bow. There are a lot of things that help determine how and where you anchor. The whole idea is that when you have everything adjusted closely your body geometry allows for better bone alignment and less muscle tension to draw, aim and shoot the bow.

Now I'm probably going to get into trouble but my suggestion would be to log in at www.archerytalk.com and do a search on "shooting form" and pay real close attention to posts by Nut&Bolts. Maybe a search of "Nut&Bolts" would work, too. This guy is about the best GURU that I know of when it come to explaining these things; complete with pictures and such.
I know he's way better at it than I.

[drockw]

Too long a draw can cause inconsistent torquing left/right in your form. When you are too long, like BG said, it make for inconsistent bone to bone alignment. You release hand is more likely to change point either closer or further to you face, causing you to torque the bow to line up the sight through the peep.

Definately check into nuts&bolts on AT. You might find TONS of form flaws that you may be able to work on. Just take the time, and figure them out one by one...

Heres a direct like to part of his tuning pages.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=685228

[The Rev]

ORIGINAL: drockw


You might find TONS of form flaws that you may be able to work on. Just take the time, and figure them out one by one...

Heres a direct like to part of his tuning pages.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=685228

Good answer, most of the time it is a form and consistency issue. I've seen guys with terrible form shoot quite well just because they are consistent in the shot process.