Well, its possible since the knots are facing opposite. But for me, it would matter very little. Probably the smallest effect on flight one could imagine. Kinda like one of those scenerios of a peep site knocking your bow out of balance and you need to offset it with equal wieght on the opposite side of the serving.
I thought it was a little far fetched too. The guy installed a cam for me and now I have a giant loop which I will cut off unless someone tells me the short one is bad.
I make my loops as short as possible. I don't use a very stiff material but they are just long enough to get my release to hook the loop with out touching the nock.
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It could make a difference when using a hand held release that has a one sided jaw and the release is twisted around at an angle when shooting.This will put some torque on the string. That was one reason I started tying longer loops and I actually found I liked the longer loop with a shorter draw length for anchor purposes.
I've got a pretty similar line of thought as TFOX; I only tie my super-short loops on my hunting rigs used in conjunction with my wrist caliper releases... On my target setups where I'll be shooting a hinge-style release, I lengthen the loop since I'll be twisting my release hand slightly to anchor with my knuckles along my jaw bone.
Location: From WA, lived in NC, MO, KS, NY, GA, and retired in the "Show Me"
Posts: 130
RE: D-loop causing torque?
I use short loops as well but, I tie in serving noks above and below the arrow inside the loop.
That way the loop is pinching the nok point and not the arrow itself.
Here is an excellent example I just googles and exactly what I do....
Torque depends alot on your release aid and the way you hold it, but honestly I don't believe you will see a very noticable difference. I tie very short loops. I add serving on the inside to prevent the loop from pincing. I like to tie the serving on bottom, not the top. This helps not to have a longer than needed loop and still prevents the loop from pinching. It can be done on top, bottom, or both, (all in personal preference.) The reason I hate long loops is it extends your length of draw. (NOTICE I didn't say draw length.) If your draw length is 28" and your have a 3/4" loop then you have changed your anchor point dramatically.
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Torque depends alot on your release aid and the way you hold it, but honestly I don't believe you will see a very noticable difference. I tie very short loops. I add serving on the inside to prevent the loop from pincing. I like to tie the serving on bottom, not the top. This helps not to have a longer than needed loop and still prevents the loop from pinching. It can be done on top, bottom, or both, (all in personal preference.) The reason I hate long loops is it extends your length of draw. (NOTICE I didn't say draw length.) If your draw length is 28" and your have a 3/4" loop then you have changed your anchor point dramatically.
That can be a good thing or it can be a bad thing.
What I am seeing alot nowadays are people getting their loops so short that when they use the corner of their mouth and the tip of their nose as string anchors,they can't get their draw elbow back in the proper position.
D-loop causing torque?
