I just noticed that my cams on my 101st is a bit out of time. My question is how do they get out of time in the first place? Also will it hurt a bow to shoot it while the cams are out of time? Thoughts?
Ok, i guess my next question is how much off is acceptable? The bottom cam is on the 2nd mark and the top cam is on the 3rd mark. The closest shop is about 45 miles away so thats why im wondering if i can just leave it the way it is. Also ive shot 4 3d shoots with it and ive been doing pretty good, would i do evenbetter if the cams were timed right?
Ok, i guess my next question is how much off is acceptable? The bottom cam is on the 2nd mark and the top cam is on the 3rd mark. The closest shop is about 45 miles away so thats why im wondering if i can just leave it the way it is. Also ive shot 4 3d shoots with it and ive been doing pretty good, would i do evenbetter if the cams were timed right?
You just might do better! Confidence in your equipment can do wonders for scores if all you have to worry about is your aimIf you know your equipment is set up correctly you will shoot better. I'm in the process of getting a product to the market that will allow shooters to check their cam orientation at any time. It can be taken to shoots and kept in the quiver to be used on the range for a quick confidence builder
Interesting, WWAG. How does this work? I'm really curious, but that looks very innovative. Does it attach at a specific reference point on the cam, and the point extending out to the string used as a measuring point? You can PM me if you don't want to discuss the details in public.
Anyways, to the OP, the dots are just starting points. It's advised to not base timing off the marks specifically. Rather, draw back the bow (preferably on a hook are on a draw board, but having a second person watch you draw back will work, too), and watch the draw stop modules. They should both contact the cables at the exact same time, and both should contact about 1/8" AFTER the draw stop hits the limb to allow that little o-ring to compress.
Until Russ gets that into production, We will all have to keep checking it at full draw!
Oftentimes at rest, the timing dots WILL be off a tad from each other by a "dot" or so. That is normal based on limb deflection at full draw vs at brace height.
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Until Russ gets that into production, We will all have to keep checking it at full draw!
Oftentimes at rest, the timing dots WILL be off a tad from each other by a "dot" or so. That is normal based on limb deflection at full draw vs at brace height.
I agree. I synched mine based off the draw stop modules at full draw, and at rest, I have about one dot difference between the two.
Until Russ gets that into production, We will all have to keep checking it at full draw!
Oftentimes at rest, the timing dots WILL be off a tad from each other by a "dot" or so. That is normal based on limb deflection at full draw vs at brace height.
It would still be a good idea to check the stops (if your bow has module stops) at full draw due to cable "flatening" or serving separation at sharp bends in the cam grooves. One of the many reasons that bows go out of sync or rotation.
Cam timing
If you know your equipment is set up correctly you will shoot better. I'm in the process of getting a product to the market that will allow shooters to check their cam orientation at any time. It can be taken to shoots and kept in the quiver to be used on the range for a quick confidence builder
