Yep they should be the same. You shouldreally check Cam sync at full draw also. That's easier to do with a draw board, but you can get it plenty close enough without one.
I too asked this question a lot while learning how to tune these things. Here is the deal as I understand. The timing marks are ONLY a starting point to get the bow close. When cam timing/synch is set correctly, the dots WILL NOT match. The reason they won't match up is this. Our nocking point is not set at the true center of the string. It's above it. One cam will need to be advanced ahead of the other slightly in order to counter act this. If you have a draw board, use it. If not, I suggest building one. This will really show you exactly what is going on with these bows when you draw them.
Get the module draw stops on both cams to hit the cables at the exact same time at full draw. Then, look at the dots. Chances are, the bottom cam will be showing close to a half dot more than the top. ( I think I have this right)
One thing I had to contact several people on, including Bowtech was optimum cam position. This was the starting point the cams should be in at brace. For my 07 Alley, it was 4 dots. I set the bow to have 4 dots on each cam showing, then started to synch. Bow is in perfect time now and I have 80% letoff at full draw.
In addition- NO limbs, even the best laminated limbs like Barnsdale, Hoyt, etc are perfectly matched. At full draw there will be slight differences in deflection compared to at brace which will change the synch.
What I'm findingwith these binary systems is they are far less sensitive in out of synch conditions compared to a hybrid slave/CPS type system. Binaries lose some performance for sure, but they don't get all weird and sensitive to creep/tension in/at the wall/valley like a slave/CPS.
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ORIGINAL: JeffB
What I'm finding is with these binary systems is they are far less sensitive in out of synch conditions compared to a hybrid slave/CPS type system. Binaries lose some performance for sure, but they don't get all weird and sensitive to creep/tension in/at the wall/valley like a slave/CPS.
That is beautiful thing about them Jeff. I like to get my rigs down to a hair, but the average Bowhunter is still inpretty good shape when things are a little out
Jeff, great point about limb deflection. And you're exactly right about the cam system. It really does as advertised and isn't as sensitive to abnormalities in the system.
I absolutely love the binary system and it seems every year, Bowtech improves it a bit. That's one thing I really like about what Bowtech seems to be doing. They keep improving a good, solid design..not just move on to something else.
One other thing that makes the binary stand out to me is the amount of tunability you can get out of them. For us compulsive tinkerers...its neat to be able to adjust the draw stop peg a little and get an entirely different feel out of the bow. You really can tailor the feel of the bow to your liking.
Lots of good information here. The reason I asked this question is because I had the timing checked at full draw ata shopand theysaid it was on. However, when I got home and checked the dots the bottom cam is showing right at 5 and the top is showing not quite 4 dots. This puzzled me somewhat.
I have new strings and a new press on order so when they arrive I will be going into this for the first time. So looking for as much info as I can get prior to the event. Guess I will be making a draw board too since it appears as if it will be conducive.
Thanks for all the advice all.
Ed
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ORIGINAL: JeffB
What I'm finding is with these binary systems is they are far less sensitive in out of synch conditions compared to a hybrid slave/CPS type system. Binaries lose some performance for sure, but they don't get all weird and sensitive to creep/tension in/at the wall/valley like a slave/CPS.
That is beautiful thing about them Jeff. I like to get my rigs down to a hair, but the average Bowhunter is still inpretty good shape when things are a little out
Dan
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