OK, I have my Hoyt Vectrix XL shooting good through paper with field points. A guy at work gave me a slick trick magnum to try out. I shot it and it shoots a few inches high and to the right of where my field points hit. This was at 20 yards. Should I move my sight or my rest and nock point to bring in the slick tricks to hit where my field points do? I have read so much about how slick tricks shoot like field points, in my case they do not. Any help would be great.
Background info. I shoot 70lbs, 29"dl, TT shakey drop away, beman 400's, 100g tips
I have been using NAP spitfires for over three years now and love them they work great for me and they fly just like my field tips. I was just wanting to try somthing new.
Well,at 29" draw length and shooting a .400 spine arrow at 70#'s,I am going to say the broadhead hitting right is due to the arrow spine being too weak.As far as too high,I would say the rest needs to be moved down slightly as well.
I would try to tune by moving the rest towards your field points but I doubt you will have much succes with that arrow spine.
As soon as I saw the arrow spine - I had the same thought as T-FOX- underspined. You should seriously consider bumping up to a .340-ish class spine- the fixed blades AND your Spitfires will be better off.
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Well,at 29" draw length and shooting a .400 spine arrow at 70#'s,I am going to say the broadhead hitting right is due to the arrow spine being too weak.As far as too high,I would say the rest needs to be moved down slightly as well.
I would try to tune by moving the rest towards your field points but I doubt you will have much succes with that arrow spine.
TFOX is right. Try to lower your poundage down to 60 and see how it flies before you attempt adjust anything, youneed 340's imo
Do you think I could get away with a .360 spine? I got on the Beman web site and for my arrow length and draw weight they suggest the ICS Energy 360's.
Your arrow spine as TFOX and Jeff mentioned will caused your arrow to fly to the right (assuming) your releaseon your right hand. Underspined. 70# 29" DL, you'll need a stiffer shaft.However check to see is your broadhead sits flat on the insertand there's now 'wobble' if you spin test the arrow. Sometimes you have to switch the blades around and evenswap the washer.You also mentioned you got this broadhead from a buddy of yours, if it has been used it could have been damaged. Check the blades for any dings etc. A 70# bow will generate a fair bit of speed and a broadhead that isn't properly aligned will nail you tothe cross, most times.
Well,at 29" draw length and shooting a .400 spine arrow at 70#'s,I am going to say the broadhead hitting right is due to the arrow spine being too weak.As far as too high,I would say the rest needs to be moved down slightly as well.
I would try to tune by moving the rest towards your field points but I doubt you will have much succes with that arrow spine.
This is the first thing tat comes to mind as well. The whole point of tuning is to get the arrow/bow combination working to it's optimum. You already have the arrows. Dropping a turn or two off the limbs can be part of the tuning process and is a lot cheaper than another batch of arrows. Actually limb bolts are put on a bow for a lot more than just holding the limbs on the riser. You'd probably get those arrows to fly at 65# and no animal on this planet will know the difference.
As for the arrows hitting high? You bet. Move the rest down or nocking point up. Shooting through paper shows you how the arrow is leaving the bow. Thgere are more factors than this that determine how it hits down range. Rear drag and FOC enter into it as well, and these do not show at a couple feet through paper. 20 yards is a lot longer than a couple feet so any imperfections will be readily seen, especially when you put blades up front.
TFOX is right. Try to lower your poundage down to 60 and see how it flies before you attempt adjust anything, youneed 340's imo
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Broadhead tuning help needed!
