Fletched arrows are flying really well - but an unfletched arrow seems to indicate that the rest is too far left. I have not shot a broadhead with it yet. I do not know if I should just leave it alone.
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There is nothing like seeing your son embrace a love for the outdoors - God has blessed me!
Right now I am using a Rage 3 blade and they fly great - but I would like to be able to shoot a muzzy fixed blade. The bottom line is that I am just neurotic about wanting the bow to shoot its absolute best! I probably just need to calm down.
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There is nothing like seeing your son embrace a love for the outdoors - God has blessed me!
Well you will probably shoot better when you're calm. Both the rage and the muzzy will shoot fine. Besides, you wouldn't shoot with out fletchings. I'd say you are just fine and not to worry about it. Don't bother with arrows that haven't been fletched.
I only asked what broadheads you were using because I wanted to make sure that it wasn't some monster 185 grain thing that would possibly cause a problem.
Laser in my opinion is a waste of time. YOu can do the same eyeballing it with cams. Only thing I trust is walkback, then bareshaft, then paper, then broadhead tuning. If all those techniques line up, you got one tuned rig.
I find bareshaft to be the most sensitive. In other words, I can get bullet holes thru paper, but still broadheads and bareshaft does not fly true. After I bareshaft, usually the paper still has bulletholes and now my broadheads hit well.
I'll be the first to admit that BC probably knows way more about this sort of thing than I do. I guess I only shoot fletched arrows and that works very well for me.
Laser in my opinion is a waste of time. YOu can do the same eyeballing it with cams. Only thing I trust is walkback, then bareshaft, then paper, then broadhead tuning. If all those techniques line up, you got one tuned rig.
I find bareshaft to be the most sensitive. In other words, I can get bullet holes thru paper, but still broadheads and bareshaft does not fly true. After I bareshaft, usually the paper still has bulletholes and now my broadheads hit well.
I'm about 50% with you BC, I usually do a walkback, then throw the BH's on and tweak. I don't do bareshafting or paper, as I've found I can get what I want by just doing a quick walkback, then screwing on the BH, spintesting them, and trusting my BH tune to lead me to the "perfect tune," whatever that may be for me.
To the OP's question..... "NO!!!" The Laser is just a start point, and BC's right, for the most part, it's a WASTE of time because most of us can "eyeball" a set-up and get it close, then tweak a little and have it right. If that bow is "centered" with a laser, but still doesn't shoot perfect, then it's not really "centered." Physical "center" and shooting "center" can be two different things, shoot a loop, and then shoot off of the string, and you'll see exactly what I mean.
A laser is only going to be as straight as the machining on the side of the riser. If the path of the string/arrow and the levelness (pardon the ghetto word) of the riser are not dead nuts with each other... you'll have crooked results.
Moreover, no matter if your form is perfect or flawed... its still your form.. and still your grip on the bow. You need to tweak it to YOU!!!! The YOU aspect is something that no bow tech can really tune for.. unless of course you are shooting with them standing behind you.. which you will pay for of course.
__________________ You get what you put in, and people get what they deserve. - Kid Rock
Laser-tuned Centershot ???
. Both the rage and the muzzy will shoot fine. Besides, you wouldn't shoot with out fletchings. I'd say you are just fine and not to worry about it. Don't bother with arrows that haven't been fletched.
