When I bought my new Razortec, I installed a NAP Quicktune 2000 drop away rest. After having the Pro Shop install it for me, I read with interest Pinwheel' s and others opinions about how the arrow should stay on the rest as long as possible for better arrow stability in flight (one of the reasons he doesn' t like dropaways). Currently, my set-up drops the rest out of the way WELL ahead of when it would have to--the shop said that' s the way they always install them. I' m shooting bullet holes through paper with this (haven' t bare shafted yet) and wonder if I should tinker with it? Ideas/ thoughts?
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If you are getting bulletholes leave it alone!
There is really no reason to tune with a bare shaft JMHO.
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On the MZE, the rest is adjusted to rise all the way, just in the last couple inches of draw. This puts the rest down very soon during the shot. This is how Muzzy tells you to adjust it, and it works very well for me.
Charlie
That' s the same way NAP tell you to set up their rests also. I have the QT 2000 and it rises up the last five inches of draw and drops almost immediatly. It should be in full upright position about an inch to two inches before you get to full draw.
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I have the quick tune 4000 and a good way to adjust it is pull back your bow and have some one make two marks on your cable gaurd were it stops, 2nd step is well the bow is in your lap just slide that cable back to where the marks line up and that is how much cable on your arrow rest is needed.
Another thing is make sure when you have the cable on your rest going in the direction that it tighten its self everytime you pull it back. Good luck and if you need some pictures sent or need me to explain it better email me.
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I agree with bigpopascout if you get bullet holes at veryous distances leave it alone . Never was a fan of bare shaft tuneing its mostly for finger shooters .and can be expensive ie bent or broken arrows . I line it up by eye sometimes paper tune then go to broadhead tuneing .
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All the cable driven drop aways are usually set up to pick up in the last couple inches and drop in the first couple inches. The reason for this is to get the rest up earlier you have to put to much stress on the cables, as the tight cord will not allow them to move back.
You can get around this to a degree by adding a spring to the string. I have used this method on my converted mathews rest. The spring allows enough tension to get the rest up earlier, and still allows the cables to slide to the rear. it will also drop later in the power stroke.
good luck
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In my opinion I believe you should have at least 4 inches of support before drop and more is better if you have some touque issues. I have over 10 inches of support with my Plainsman rest on my DC pat and it is the most accurate and forgiving bow I' ve ever owned. I believe a wide range will work but more is better than less. The problem with most drop aways is that they don' t yeild to the arrow' s flexing at the shot. The Plainsman is spring cushioned like most convential rests but still drops out of the way for fletch clearance and it dosen' t require a cable rod, slide or cables
The GKF Power Drop addresses this issue nicely. The prongs stay in the upright position and provide support for the arrow and drops away just before the fletchings reach the rest. I think it' s the cats meow for drop-aways.
When the drop-away should drop
