I bought some magnus stinger buzzcutts 4 blades 100 grain. I shoot a 350 carbon express maxima hunter with blazer vanes. They are not hitting were I aim. How do I solve this problem because I like the broadhead.
Not sure what kind of sight setup you're using, but you'll probably have to adjust your pins for whatever broadhead/shaft you're using. I had my PSE stacking arrows with field points, but it was shooting right with Muzzys, so I had to move the sight to compensate. Unless you're really good with Kentucky windage, that's probably what you'll have to do. I'm not an expert, but I hope this helped some.
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PSE XForce TS (LH) 67.5# Easton ST Axis Nano 340, Muzzy 100gr. Scott Mongoose
I personally shoot rage and slick tricks and you dont have th adjust the sight for those at all Some bheads just dont fly well and need to be sighted in for them. Ive tried quite a few and they didnt group well, but the slicks and rage heads all hit the fieldtip spots
goodluck and just move the sights. If you can, try lining up the vanes with the blades on the bhead also to help.
Adjusting your pins is the easiest way. But then when you want to practice with f.p's your off again. If you play with your setups, arrows. There are other ways to tinker & get the broadheads to hit closer to your field pts. Thats what I usually do. 1 way is to try different vanes, and off sets. The blazers might not be compensating the planeage your broadheads are causing. Also a thought is sometimes your setup isn't tuned as well as you think, and thats why the broadheads are off. Broadheads will bring out tuning mistakes, and improper arrow spine. But thats not aways the case. There's a ton to it!
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02' Champion Stratus
I personally shoot rage and slick tricks and you dont have th adjust the sight for those at all Some bheads just dont fly well and need to be sighted in for them. Ive tried quite a few and they didnt group well, but the slicks and rage heads all hit the fieldtip spots
goodluck and just move the sights. If you can, try lining up the vanes with the blades on the bhead also to help.
4 blade head with 3 blazers? Im not trying to be a smartass, but is there really a way they should be lined up??
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I personally shoot rage and slick tricks and you dont have th adjust the sight for those at all Some bheads just dont fly well and need to be sighted in for them. Ive tried quite a few and they didnt group well, but the slicks and rage heads all hit the fieldtip spots
goodluck and just move the sights. If you can, try lining up the vanes with the blades on the bhead also to help.
4 blade head with 3 blazers? Im not trying to be a smartass, but is there really a way they should be lined up??
No, broadhead to fletching alignment doesn't mean crap. No matter what you've heard to the contrary, the science disproves it.
It's a tuning problem. Learn how to align/tune your broadhead to the shaft then learn how to broadhead tune your bow. While I don't agree 100% with everything in there, 5 shot's link is a great resource that should get you on track.
I generally try to move the arrow rest and nocking point, first to geta good paper tune, and then to get fixed BH's and field points hitting the same. This is outlined very well in Easton's Tuning Guide. I have done pretty well in this endeavor with the various Hoyt bows I have had in the past. Just make sure you start with a properly spined arrow and no contact issues.
Got a Mathews recently and can't quite get the two impacts the same. Close, but maybe inch and half horizontal difference in group centers.
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With a properly tuned bow you CAN have any quality broadhead hitting the same point of impact (POI) as a field point. I do not agree with moving the sight for your broadheads. A broadhead that is planing in a direction often exponentially increases as the distance gets farther (might plane 2" at 20 and 3" at 30, only an example) As well a bow tuned for broadheads is much more forgiving. A tuned broadhead will also penetrate better.
Here is how I tune.
1) paper tune until I get acceptable holes with field points.
2) Get 2 broadheads and make sure they spin perfectly
3) Go to 20yrds and shoot 2 broadheads (bh) and 1 field point (fp). Note where the bh's POI hit in relation to the the fp's.
4) Move your rest in the direction you want the bh's to go towards the fp's. Say if shooting 6" right, move your rest 1/32" to the left. It is very important to move the rest in very small (1/32" or smaller) increments. Same applies to up and down. If bh's are high move the rest down. I only do one direction at a time.
5) repeat #3 and #4 until your POI's are the same.
6) Move to your maximum effective range and repeat #3 and #4 but moving your rest in even smaller increments until the POI's are the same.
7) move your sights to POI
When your doing this your fp's will also move but not as much as the broadheads.
Once you get the hang of it this method takes less than 20 minutes. Remember to move the rest in very small increments. I can't stress this enough.
Once tuned you will probably find that all most all broadheads will fly with your fp's or will be very, very close.