Shot 100gr Thunder heads the last 3 years,
2 things, they tear up my targets (the last 2 weeks before season)
and I have "twigged" 3 times.
Switching to Mech will stop the target slaughter and cut down on the twigging (a lot less Frontal area, less chance of hitting that twigg)
What is a good, basic, solid mech broadhead. I am not a "hype" person, I was not impressed with the "packaging" that was hanging at Bass Pro. I really dont need pictures of Snakes and Eagle Talons on My broad head packages, how about printing the "stats" from testing on the package ?
Any how, What would be a good solid performer for Mech Broadheads.
Not quite sure I understand the story but I have been using a old style Vortex for around 12 years and IMO is a damn good BH for a set up that produces lots of KEbut I am not sure how it will help your target situation as the 100gr cut 2 1/2" and the 125gr cut 2 3/4". Anyhow, they have them in cabelas if you are interested, I have always shot the pro's, never have shot any of their other heads....Good luck in your search!!!
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The rage 2 and 3 blades are really nice, not cheap. Same for grim reaper. One is a rear deploying blade, the rage, that allows for more penetration with less loss of energy and no deflection on quartering shots. Grim reaper deploys from the front. Very reliable, but there is risk of some deflection, though negated by its newer styles over the last few years, and there is more of a loss of energy.
I think those are two pretty good heads to choose from.
Spitfire baby! They are a tough, solid, simple head that cuts a massive hole, leaves great blood trails, doesn't need o-rings or rubberbands to keep them closed, fly great, and only require about 45 #'s of K.E. to open.
here is a link of some slo mo test footage it shows a spitfire going through a cow femur and opening on a water balloon.
There are so many different broadheads it's hard to pick just one. Take a look at my website, and read through the mech vs fixed as well as the new heads section. After you do that drop me an email or Pm if you have anyquestions. To be honest I can't reccomend any heads without first knowing what type of bow you shoot, poundage and your draw length. Kinetic energy plays a big part in choosing a mechanical broadhead, as well as bow tuning. I would also suggest you read the ratings page so you can understand the scoring system. www.broadheadtests.com
just picked up some rage 2 blades.....been a muzzy 3blade guy all my life.
not sure I like them, or not yet. I like the idea of rear blade deployment etc...best design for a mech out there IMO.
But I was thinking, doesn't it take up some of the arrows energy to push those blades open? therefor sapping force used to push that blade through the animal vs. a solid cut on contact etc...type broadhead.
The smaller cross section while in flight I like for better long range/ wind bucking characteristics, but I'm not sure about a few things, 1, using energy to deploy the blades, and 2, being a mechanical, things seem like more parts to go wrong, also the tips seem very dull, the blades seem sharp, but thigns seem flimsy, so I don't know.
Considering Montec G5, or NAP razorbaks, in place of both my muzzys and rage 2 blades.
Shot 100gr Thunder heads the last 3 years,
2 things, they tear up my targets (the last 2 weeks before season)
All broadheads will tear up a target real quick. Shooting a large mechanical is only going to do it faster than the thunderheads you have been shooting. So you certainly wouldn't be helping your situation any by using a mechanical.
Quote:
and I have "twigged" 3 times.
Then you need to quit shooting through twigs. Your vanes stick out much farther than your thunder head blades do so you will still have the same problem you did before switching to a mechanical.
I don't know what to tell you.
One problem you don't have any control over and you are just going to have to accept if you are going to shoot broadheads while practicing.
The second problem you have complete control over and you just need to pick your shot better.
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