I've tried them for two years now and still think it stinks that you cant tune your broadheads on them.
Alum. you use hot melt and you can get the broadheads perfect. But i do like the lighter weight. and the fly fine. I've seen the little dog bone thing from G5 that is suppose to true the insert end. Do they work. How can you get the inserts out of carbon shafts. Reglue with slow epoxy?
Just a suggestion but the FMJ's by Easton self align the broadheads to the shaft and are aluminum and carbon so you get the best of both worlds with great broadhead flight.
Just some food for thought.
never used the product your asking about so I can't help there.Sorry.
Put a field tip in vice grips and heat it up on the wife's gas stove. After heating, thread the point into the insert and pull. The hot insert will heat the glue surrounding the insert and you will be able to pull it out without transferring excessive heat to the carbon shaft.
I think most folks have abandoned the conceptof tuning broadheads to alignment with fletchings. However, a slow drying epoxy should allow you to do this with carbon shafts.
Welcome to the forums. You'll also find plenty of guys on here who still shoot aluminum for their penetration and straightness.
If you find carbons frustrating, then you should stick with aluminums. Both have disadvantages and advantages.
You can get a insert out of a carbon by using the "jack-hammer" method with a drill bit. You choose the largest bit that will fit into the shaft and still move freely inside of it. Then you sling the arrow in a downward motion over and over until the bit slams the insert out of the shaft. You should do this in an area where you can control the direction of where the bit and insert come out as they can come out rather suddenly. You should do this rather than resorting to applying heat to carbon as heat can ruin the resins that bind the carbon fibers together.
I assume you are referring to indexing the heads on the arrow so they spin test properly. If you face the arrow first with the carbon side of the ASD and then face the insert with the aluminum side of the ASD, your head should spin fine unless you have inferior heads.
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I've tried them for two years now and still think it stinks that you cant tune your broadheads on them. Alum. you use hot melt and you can get the broadheads perfect. But i do like the lighter weight. and the fly fine. I've seen the little dog bone thing from G5 that is suppose to true the insert end. Do they work. How can you get the inserts out of carbon shafts. Reglue with slow epoxy?
LMAO! Yeah, sure enough you're right. That's why there are literally THOUSANDS of deer killed each year with carbon arrows. You don't honestly think they're being shot w/ field points do ya?
That "little dog bone thing" is the ASD (arrow squaring device) from G5. Yes, they work very well. I understand what you mean about the hot melt glue though.....And in that aspect you're spot on. BUT, instead of using super glue to glue in your inserts.......Why couldn't you use 2 part epoxy, screw your broadheads into the inserts, and tune them that way. W/ the epoxy, you've got some time before it sets so you could spin your inserts to get the wobble out of the broadhead....Just a thought.
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Hey i like the jack hammer idea. I will try that. And the tuning i was refering to was to get them spining true. I dont buy the fletch alignment stuff? The insert were glued in at the archery shop,didnt know they would be so hit and miss.
On the FMJ, i had thought about that, but dont know anyone who has them. Do you think i could use hot melt on them? That would be great. Has anyone tried this?
And thank for the replies.
Steve
If you are having problems with getting broadheads to spin on carbon arrows then it is likely that your arrows are not cut suare to begin with or the person installing the inserts didn't seat them good and tight against the carbon. Every now and then you get a bad one but usually you can simply try another broadhead on that shaft and have it spin true.
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If ya hate em, the don't use em.... I wouldn't use anything thing else myself. Don't blame the arrow, blame either the equipment or lack of knowledge about tuning.
If you're having problems with your Carbon arrows, you have one of the following problems....
1. You're using CHEAP arrows. (If you're shooting something .003 or better, you SHOULD be ok here.)
2. You're using arrows that weren't cut properly or squared right. (If you're arrows were cut by someone who KNOWS what they're doing and squared, again, you should be ok here.)
3. You're using arrows that are way off on spine. (Post up your set-up, bow, draw wt. and length, arrows, size/spine of the arrows, components on the arrows, tip wt.)
4. Your BH's aren't spinning true. (Have you spin-tested your arrows??? Do you have a spin-tester or just use your finger??? )
5. You're shooting a BH that just don't match up well with your set-up. (What BH are you shooting??? Some BH's just are TOUGH to tune. ST's are not one of them. )
6. You need help getting to the bottom of the problem because you don't really know enough to solve it yourself. (You're in the right place to find help. Don't be offended, we CAN likely help you NOT HATE your Carbon Arrows. )
i hate carbon arrows
