bow setup problem?

[matt6506]

i'm having a problem with my new bow i just purchased. i've been shooting it with field tips for about a month now and have had no accuracy problems what so ever. i decided to get out my muzzy three blade 100gr broadheads, but i can't get them to fly like my field tips. at 20yds they hit about 4 inches right and at 30 about 6 inches right. i've heard that if a bows not properly tuned that i would have problems with fixed blades. with my old pse bow, i never had this problem. i know my new bow was professionally tuned. i cringe at trying mechanicals, what should i do, i mainly hunt whitetails. should i go get the bow setup at another proshop, or switch broadheads. i just started using 2 inch blazers too, i don't know if that would mess up anything or not.....i have no idea and im panicing at this point. I didn't spend go money on a bow to see it not shoot my muzzys like my field tips.please anyone..............HELP..........

[Kelly/KY]

Matt,

Without much info, the first thing I'd check is center shot, sounds like your bow may be slight off to the right, making the shot off to the right the farther you move back. I'd ajust a bit to the left, minimal until your broadheads shoot deadon out to 40 yards, then re-adjust your sights. Just a starting point.

Kelly

[davepjr71]

Kelly is right as far as adjustment. And move it a very small amount. 1/32" or so to start. It does not take much. If you can not get it straightened out left to right you have a spine issue.

One thing that you have to realize is that your new bow shoots faster than your old bow. The faster the bow the more tuning is important. That's why out of your old PSE you did not have problems. I ran into this when I went to my Ally from my Bear bow. Also, I've seen professional tuned bows that were out of tune. Just because it was done in a shop does not mean it was done right. Especially if all they did was use paper or not even that just measured center shot and set the nock 3/8" abovee center, etc.

Go to Easton's website where they have a good article on tuning and what to do and learn how to tune the bow yourself. There is also a thread at the start of this forum by TFOX "Don't stop at walk back" that is informative.

And you can also try French tuning. (Yes, I do learn some things from Field guys.)

http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/usarcher1FT.pdf

[The Rev]

P.M. me and I'll tell you how to set your center shot perfect. Without confusing you.

[MOhunting]

Rev,

Share with the rest of us, as I sure am curious what you have to say

[davepjr71]

No hidden secret with a Bowtech/Diamond bows. The company has made it easy for anyone to get the center shot.

Center shot on a Bowtech/Diamond is the center of the valley in the riser. You can measure ita few ways.

1.Drops a string down the center of the line that runs down the back of the riser and you will see that it runs down the middle of the valley on the riser and make sure the center of your rest is lined up with the string.

2.Measure off the riser then set your center of your rest the same distance off.

3.Take an arrow, nock it, line up the arrow with the center of the valley and lock down your rest.

4.If you have a drop away you can set the valley of the drop away on the center of the valley of the riser and you are done. I've replaced my rest by doing this and did not have to adjust it at all for tuning.

However, even if you do that you still need to check the tuneof thebow by either walk back, paper, or French. Little variations in shooting style or in the bow itself may not have it dead center and every shooter should know how to tune a bow.

Matt, your going to have to adjust your centershot and BH tune them.

Drop your bow poundage until they hit together or move the centershot.

Its very simple.

[rhustek]

Read an article on Archery here, I believe in a Momentum vs Kinetic Energy discussion. Anyways, in that article the suggestion was made that it is better to tune the bow for its primary purpose first. There is something to be said about tuninga bow to shoot your broadheads first, instead of working on getting your broadheads to shoot straight after its been tuned for 3D or target. Just an FYI for anyone who is purchasing a new hunting bow or getting ready for a tune-up.