Cardiac issues

Germ · 07-13-2008, 05:58 PM

Well I got one of the last cardiacs before the change.

I have a feeling I got one just sent out to get out the door.

The strtings and cables seem to be to long. I marked my cam after about 150 shots. Well they have stretch a lot. So to get the cam back to where my marks where i have to take twist out of the cable and string. W-T-F? That does not make sense

Bow is at 77 lbs and feels terrible

Any suggestions?

Pictures

brucelanthier · 07-13-2008, 07:04 PM

Not to blow you off but why not just invest in a set of new strings and cables? If the current ones stretched as much as it sounds I am not sure I would want to use them. MeanV2 sells vaportrail strings and you will be very happy with the price on them.

Germ · 07-13-2008, 07:06 PM

I am going too

But just does not make sense. I should not have to take twist out[&:]

Kanga · 07-13-2008, 07:11 PM

Quote:

I should not have to take twist out

Maybe they shrunk in the wash[8D]

brucelanthier · 07-13-2008, 07:12 PM

I see. Yeah, that does seem strange.

Is that a 70# bow at 77#'s?

Now that Bowtech owns them I am sure all that a$$-backwards stuff will be fixed LOL

Germ · 07-13-2008, 07:27 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: brucelanthier

I see. Yeah, that does seem strange.

Is that a 70# bow at 77#'s?

Now that Bowtech owns them I am sure all that a$$-backwards stuff will be fixed LOL

Correct 70# bow at 77#

It pulls hard[&:]

TFOX · 07-14-2008, 03:24 PM

On a 1 cam,when you put twist in the cable,you will rotate the cam back and increase the draw length.When you put a twist in the string,you will rotate the cam forward and shorten the draw length.

When you increase the draw length,you increase poundage.

You untwisted the string AND cable which is the opposite of what you should have done.Yes,you were able to get it to your marks because each movement counteracted the other.I bet if you measure the draw length,it will be long.

Twist the cable back to where it was and add about 1 twist,your cable probably has not stretched that much.Then twist the string back untill the marks are hit,you might have to add a little more twist in the cable.

Just watch you a-a and brace.Then recheck your draw length.

I would do this before I had them replaced,might give you an idea of how to get the after markets set perfectly.

TFOX · 07-14-2008, 03:27 PM

For the record,this is why I prefer the cam 1/2 system.MUCH easier to get timed and tuned imo.That isn't a nock on 1 cams,they are proven options.

This is why I laugh when people say you don't have to worry about a 1 cam,it is always timed,or they are easier to setup.[&:]

Germ · 07-14-2008, 07:15 PM

Thx Todd

The issues is when I take twist in, it moves the camp out of sync. I ordered some new cables and strings, I measured them tonight.

The string is .5 inches to long and the cable is .3 inches to long[&:]

TFOX · 07-14-2008, 09:06 PM

Exactly,and if you put twist in the cable,that puts it(cable) back in spec and rotates the cam back.THEN,you put twist in the string and it puts it(string) back in spec and at the same time,rotates the cam back forward.The marks should align at this point.

They work opposite of each other when they are twisted,just have to keep the right amount of twist in each to keep them from getting too far out.

I know it seems odd that you untwisted the strings and cables to get it back to your marks but it really isn't.I know you got it back to your marks but threw it out of sinc in the process.

Looks like the module is pretty flat,that is what I would set it up to.Pull it back and see if you are flat on the module to set the timing.Make sure the a-a and brace is correct,then do a little creep tuning to see if it does any good.Being a 1 cam it might not but then again,it might.