Does anyone know how I would go about correcting thispaper tear? I'm shooting aleft handedbow and I'm not really sure what adjustments I would need to make.
Doesn't it suck shooting wrong handed (I do, too). I'd correct the vertical error first, moving the nocking point down (or cheating and moving the rest up-sssshhhh I didn't say that.). Then correct the horizontal by moving the rest to your right. Move in very small increments, like 1/32" at a time, a little goes a long way.
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Bowtech 82nd, 26.5"draw, 54lbs
HHA Optimizer Lite
QAD Hunter
Maxima 250's
300fps, 59lbs KE
If you have checked your center shot like you said,per my thread,then don't touch the left,right adjustment of the rest.The spine is either off or you are torquingt the bow causing the tear.
If you have checked your center shot like you said,per my thread,then don't touch the left,right adjustment of the rest.The spine is either off or you are torquingt the bow causing the tear.
When I checked my center shot the first time.I was using a Eastman EZ center tool. But when I first used it, i didn't adjust for the string off-set due to the eccentric wheel design. [:@]
I re-centered my bow and made some very slight adjustments to my rest, and I came up with this.
That looks like some pretty thick paper to be paper testing with. I would have suggested not messing with it and just moving on to the next form of tuning. The holes in the original picture were not consistent which leads me to believe it's more of a form error not a tuning error. Paper tuning can be very deceiving sometimes. And those really were not that bad of tears, but then again that is some thick paper. Thinner paper might reveal a worse tear.
Nice bullet hole in that last pic, but can you do it every time at different distances?
Paul
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Nice bullet hole in that last pic, but can you do it every time at different distances?
Paul
Yes, I can shoot bullet holes every time now.The bullet hole in the last picture was shot from about 8 feet. I started from 4 feet and worked my way back to 8 feet.
If I'm getting good arrow flight shouldn't I leave everything like it is now?
Nice bullet hole in that last pic, but can you do it every time at different distances?
Paul
Yes, I can shoot bullet holes every time now.The bullet hole in the last picture was shot from about 8 feet. I started from 4 feet and worked my way back to 8 feet.
If I'm getting good arrow flight shouldn't I leave everything like it is now?
BTW, I'm shooting 2" groups at 40 yards.
How is it at 4' now? That can tell the tale.
Arrow flight is great but tuning goes beyond that and I DOUBT very seriously you can shoot 2" groups at 40 on a CONSISTANT basis.I am sure you can do it but you have to count those fliers too.
Here's the question: I'm sure you shot a 2" group on one occasion at 40 yards. But if I took a piece of 3/8" boiler plate, cut a 2" hole in it, and put it in front of your Block 4X4; how long would it take you to ruin a dozen arrows shooting at that hole at 40 yards? If the answer is "a really long time", you should be shooting in competition. National level competition.
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A man has got to know his limitations . . . . .
Nice bullet hole in that last pic, but can you do it every time at different distances?
Paul
Yes, I can shoot bullet holes every time now.The bullet hole in the last picture was shot from about 8 feet. I started from 4 feet and worked my way back to 8 feet.
If I'm getting good arrow flight shouldn't I leave everything like it is now?
BTW, I'm shooting 2" groups at 40 yards.
How is it at 4' now? That can tell the tale.
Arrow flight is great but tuning goes beyond that and I DOUBT very seriously you can shoot 2" groups a 40 on a CONSISTANT basis.I am sure you can do it but you have to count those fliers too.
I shot through paper at 4 feetand 8 feet. All were bullet holes asI said in my previous post.
As far as me not shooting a 2" group at 40 yards.I shot one,three arrow group this morning at 40 yards. All three arrows grouped within 2". If you don't want to believe me thats fine.
Paper Tuning Question for Left Handed Bow
. I'd correct the vertical error first, moving the nocking point down (or cheating and moving the rest up-sssshhhh I didn't say that.). Then correct the horizontal by moving the rest to your right. Move in very small increments, like 1/32" at a time, a little goes a long way.
