Take a look at my Cams...Cable Stops

MGH_PA · 05-28-2008, 04:46 PM

So, I made a post here the other day about my 101st ATA and brace height being incorrect, and was instructed to take my strings/cables off and measure them. I found them to be all slighlty longer than the factory specs state. Today, I was able to use a j-hook fastened into a floor joist to draw back the bow and check the cam timing. Below I included pictures of the cams at full draw, and to me, it seemed the cams were hitting the cables at the same time and were rotating at the same speed. The only issue I think I might have is my draw stop peg is hitting too late (slightly after the draw stops hit the cables). Would this cause a very shallow valley? Reason I ask is if I creep even the slightest bit, the bow wants to yank my shoulder out of socket. I attributed a lot of it to the cam aggresivness, but I still think it could be improved. This is all new territory to me, so any advice would be appreciated. Take a look at the pictures and tell me if anything stands out that needs adjusting. Thanks.

Top Cam Closeup:

Bottom Cam Closeup:

Top Cam Whole Shot:

Bottom Cam Whole Shot:

early in · 05-28-2008, 05:29 PM

It just sounds like your bow has a shallow valley, that's why it wants to take off on you like that. Yes, it's because of the radical cams these new bows have. My Vectrix is the same way. Personally, I took my draw stop pegs out to give me a softer wall. I guess it's just personal preferance. I don't know if this helps you at allwith your exact question though.

passthru79 · 05-28-2008, 05:53 PM

If your peg is hitting too early, "before yourcables hit thestop completely"it will cause a very small valley and reduce your let off. I believe bowtech does not recomend taking the peg out. I know my 82nd airborne has a pretty tight valley and itsa mother to let down smooth and slow. Thats where they get their speed though. The cam is designed to hit the full draw weight very quickly, if it were more gradual it inturn would be a slower bow. If it is becoming a problem for you, your draw might be a hair long. If you shorten your draw just a tad or lighten the poundage a bit you probably wouldnt believe the difference it makes. I know you said your string and cables were a bit longer than factory specs which could relate to a slightly longer draw length.

SwampCollie · 05-28-2008, 05:58 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: passthru79

If your peg is hitting too early, "before your cables hit the stop completely" it will cause a very small valley and reduce your let off. I believe bowtech does not recomend taking the peg out. I know my 82nd airborne has a pretty tight valley and its a mother to let down smooth and slow. Thats where they get their speed though. The cam is designed to hit the full draw weight very quickly, if it were more gradual it inturn would be a slower bow. If it is becoming a problem for you, your draw might be a hair long. If you shorten your draw just a tad or lighten the poundage a bit you probably wouldnt believe the difference it makes. I know you said your string and cables were a bit longer than factory specs which could relate to a slightly longer draw length.

10-4 Having your draw stop peg hit AFTER the cams hit the cables would actually give you a softer wall... you'll be able to feel it at full draw... almost a spongy type feel... kinda like some of the older two cam bows had. Lots of folks love it... its personal preference. My advice would be to move your peg in just a hair at a time until you are satisfied with the way it feels at full draw... if you cams are timed and rolling over correctly (in synch) and your limbs are backed out or locked down evenly... then your bow is basically performing at its peak... the rest is up the arrow, the rest and the set up. Even once all of that is performing at peak... 90% of it is still up to you and your personal preferences... and thats very important to consider.

MGH_PA · 05-28-2008, 06:26 PM

Thanks, guys. I knew the valley would be short on this bow, and there would be little creeping allowed, but it still seems to be a little off. I know you want the draw stop peg to hit about 1/16" BEFORE the cable stops make contact with the cable to allow the o-ring to collapse, so I'll adjust accordingly. How do my cable stops look?

Matt/TN · 05-29-2008, 02:59 PM

Whatever you do, do NOT do what earlyin said. Don't take the draw stops off your bow. It's ok to do on the Cam and 1/2's, but it's disasterous on Binary's. Make sure the draw stops are always on there and in the right spot. If you draw it without the draw stops, the cams over rotate and "lock" up. the cables jump off their tracks and you'll be stuck at full draw with 0 holding weight and won't be able to let down. It's not pretty, I've seen it firsthand here at the shop with an Elite Fire.

early in · 05-30-2008, 08:00 AM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Matt/TN

Whatever you do, do NOT do what earlyin said. Don't take the draw stops off your bow. It's ok to do on the Cam and 1/2's, but it's disasterous on Binary's. Make sure the draw stops are always on there and in the right spot. If you draw it without the draw stops, the cams over rotate and "lock" up. the cables jump off their tracks and you'll be stuck at full draw with 0 holding weight and won't be able to let down. It's not pretty, I've seen it firsthand here at the shop with an Elite Fire.

Yes, that's why I mentioned I have the Vectrix, which does have the cam & 1/2.That's also why I said I'm not sure if I answered his specific question.

BGfisher · 05-30-2008, 08:19 AM

Quick answer. Don't creep. Once you establish your anchor you should maintain back tension. If you have trouble with this then maybe shorten the draw length about 1/4" and see if that helps.

MGH_PA · 05-30-2008, 08:31 AM

I figured out my issue...and I'm an idiot.

early in · 05-30-2008, 08:52 AM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: MGH_PA

I figured out my issue...and I'm an idiot.

Noyou're not, that's why we come on here, to learn. I'm far from an expert on amost things. That's why I live on these forums. I love to learn, and do so, every single day!