nock high?

[patchholder]

When using a bow square and a d loop is there do you go by where the bottom of the arrow would be or the center of the arrow would be, like for example you want 0 nock heigth would that be bottom of arrow or middle? Thanks!

[BGfisher]

Are you asking about one of those stupid metal loops? Either way the answer is the same. If it's a string loop you want to tie it one the string then position it so the inside of the top knot is about 3/16" to 1/4" above the zero mark on your bow square. The bottom knot should be about 1/16" below the zero mark. This leaves a bit of a gap so as to reduce the chance of nock pinch. Now start tightening it down, but before your get it too tight check the position of the knots again. Best way for most folks to tighten the loop is with needle nose pliers.

Now, if you're thnkng of installing a metal loop the best advice you'll ever hear is "DON'T".

[Roskoe]

The metal loop is useful for trying to determine the proper nocking point on the string - ie. during thetuning process. One you find out where the nock should be, however, then tie in a nice short D loop.

What I normally do is to put the bow square across the bottom of the arrow rest and, where this point extends back to square with the string; I use that spot as the bottom of the nocking loop. You are basically trying to get the center of the arrow oriented to 90 degrees with the string - or up to 3/16" or so above that point.

[patchholder]

Thanks guys, so it is the center of the arrow that is what I needed and I am using a string loop by the way.

[liquidorange]

Now, if you're thnkng of installing a metal loop the best advice you'll ever hear is "DON'T".

gotta disagree. been a long time user and they work great. never had one come off or fray the string. solid feel on the release and just plain works. i dont care if it adds a mosquitoes snot worth of weight to the string.

[Roskoe]

My main reason for preferring a string loop to a metal D loop is that the string offers a little "foregiveness" in terms of torquing the release. I have heard they can be harder on string serving, but have no personal experience to bear that out.

[jsasker]

My wrist REALLY dislikes those heavy metal loops--and my wallet isn't real fond of them either!

[BGfisher]

ORIGINAL: liquidorange

gotta disagree. been a long time user and they work great. never had one come off or fray the string. solid feel on the release and just plain works. i dont care if it adds a mosquitoes snot worth of weight to the string.

I admit I'm a speed freak, but that is not why I advise not using a metal loop. The loop clamps to the string with little screws and it has no GIVE. When the bow is brought to full draw the string angle becomes pretty acute---right where the end of the loop is. How acute depends on how long the draw is and how short the bow is. This constant bending at this point is the reason I've seen several strings BREAK, as in snap. Problem is, it's under the serving where it can't be seen. When it goes things get real ugly real quick.

A metal loop is the only add-on I ever saw that beat the hell out of cables, too, and caused unecessary noise.They wear rough edges onrelease jaws rendering the release unfit for use on anything else.I can think of about 10 good reasons not to use one and a search here and on www.archerytalk.com will bear out that 99 out of a hundred loop shooters will tell you the same thing. And probably in much greater detail than I have posted here.

Personally I've shot a rope release for about 30+ years now so I don't even use a string loop, but I certainly would never use a metal one if I did use one. My "loop" is attached to my release.