I just made one a month or so ago as well. My cams were also out of synch but not anymore. Everything worked out perfectly too. Cams in synch, full draw weight achieved, proper letoff percentage achieved, and all my specs (A2A, BH, etc) were spot on, after some tinkering of course. Its a great feeling.
Heres some pics. I have to use it on my apartment patio railing.[&:]
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Give 'em the shaft, walk the red path, and grab life by the antlers - Me
I totally agree Germ. I hear a lot of people saying to get a friend to check for you while you draw or to use a hook and pull your bow down to check cam timing/synch. You can't go wrong with a drawboard though. It takes all the guesswork out of it. Its also nice to have for measuring draw length. Costs about $35 or so. The winch was the most expensive part of the project.
I still have a few minor details to work out on mine. Its hard to see in the pic but I have a sock on the pipe flange protecting my bow from scratches. I'm also going to attach yardstick to the board permanently for DL.
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Give 'em the shaft, walk the red path, and grab life by the antlers - Me
A drawing board is a must IMHO on any bow. A good scale and a drawing board are probably #2 most important item IMHO after a press. Once I put a dent into the "honey-do" list I've got around here and get some time and $$$ to start building downstairs I'll have one in my shop.
From what i can gather, if one owns a Binary cam bow, a drawing board is a must.
You're absolutely right.
Binary's preformance depends on sync. and proper rotation.
A home built draw board is cheap too, but the best tool you can have.
Thoughts on Kevin's statement slightly prior to 3:30 of the video about "proper AMO drawlength is measured from where the bow bottoms out in holding weight... NOT to how far you can draw the bow back"?
Thoughts on Kevin's statement slightly prior to 3:30 of the video about "proper AMO drawlength is measured from where the bow bottoms out in holding weight... NOT to how far you can draw the bow back"?
Greg,
I heard the same from Dave Nowlin when I talked to him. He told me to measure draw length at the point of least drawing force. Its not pictured but I have a digital scale I put between the turnbuckle hook and my bowstring to measure peak/holding weight. Anyway, he told me to watch where the DW falls off and then picks up again, that is where you want to measure.
Shouldn't this be about the point when your cables are just barely touching your cable stops anyway? That is what I gathered.
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Give 'em the shaft, walk the red path, and grab life by the antlers - Me
For those with Binary cams
Everything worked out perfectly too. Cams in synch, full draw weight achieved, proper letoff percentage achieved, and all my specs (A2A, BH, etc) were spot on, after some tinkering of course. Its a great feeling.
Costs about $35 or so. The winch was the most expensive part of the project.
