I was trying to tune at my local bow shop and we could not get it to tune with naked shafts,,it had a bad left tail tear,,but we got it to a bullet hole with fletchens.
To paper tune with bare shafts, you have to be a machine shooter. Your bow arm can't move one bit at the shot and release and follow thru has to be perfect. No hand torquing whatsoever.
Sounds about right,,just got my new X Force SS and I am still trying to get used to the grip,,I was shooting a Firestorm and the grip is way wider,,the X Force grip is very thin.
Sounds about right,,just got my new X Force SS and I am still trying to get used to the grip,,I was shooting a Firestorm and the grip is way wider,,the X Force grip is very thin.
Thats a good thing. The thin grip should help you not torque. XForce would be a very unforgiving bow to try to shoot a bare arrow thru paper.
Papertuning with poor form or a bad grip is the worst thing you can do. First, it will drive you nuts. Second, it will frustrate you.
Use walk back or French Tuning instead.
I agree,if you can't shoot without torquing the bow,forget paper and tune in the yard.
I'll go one step further and say if you can't shoot with great form,a radical bow like the x force is probably not a good fit as well.
I check my spine with bareshafts through paper at very close distances and it eliminates fletching contact from the equation.(should be able to get a bullet hole with centershot set very close)Once I am certain my shafts spine is correct,I fletch and Check paper for contact,then I move on to the yard for walk back and group tuning.
Paper tunning
