I have not Bruce, I shot it with the new QAD Hunter rest and after about 8 shots I had shooting Bullet holes, so I didn't do anythin g else,. I have since changed to 2" blazers. I asked the guy at the shop if we should paper tune it again, he said it should be fine without doing it again. I removed the containment bar from the top of the rest to eliminate any interference with contact.
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The ability to get close to game remains the essence of all bowhunting today.
You could assume that, but you might be assuming wrong. It would depend on how far away the paper is and what type of fletching you use. There is a slim chance you could have fletching contact and still paper tune well. The only way to really know is to put something on the fletchings, or the rest to see if they have contact issues with each other. Or if you shoot enough you will see marks on your fletchings or rest, especially if you are using vanes.
You are most likely good to go though.
Paul
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I didn't climb to the top of the food chain to eat carrots! (Ron White)
If you had 4" vanes then you didn't really adjust the weight in the back of the arrow much so you probably don't need to paper tune again. I just use paper tuning to get me pretty close, I have even skipped it,and then I go to bareshaft tuning. After bareshafting you can check with walk back and group tuning.
If you are only going to do one type of tuning, paper tuning is as good as any I suppose.
I don't know that all of those tuning steps are absolutely necessary but I do them because I like to shoot.
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Nature does nothing uselessly.
- Aristotle -
Most use spray on foot powder or lipstick. Anytime you change ANYTHING on your set up you should recheck the tuning on it. Mostly it just gives you an excuse to shoot more.
Paul
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I didn't climb to the top of the food chain to eat carrots! (Ron White)
It might just mean that you are perfectly out of tune to compensate for the fletch contact at that distance. You've put the cart before the horse. Be sure there is no fletch contact, then commence tuning.