when you are drawing your string back to anchor point with a loop and release where is the correct anchor point i think my draw is to short the shop said he would leave it alone,can anyone help me with this...........Ted
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Genesis 27:3 please take your weapons,your quiver and your bow,and go out to the field and hunt game -------------phil. 4:19 And my God shall supply all your needs
to my understanding anchor points are anchor points, one should be the tip of the nose, a kisser for the corner of the mouth then one of your knuckles some where just behind where yer jaw curves toward yer ear. depending on how you shoot these are the most used anchor points... i have a glove type release and i put the thumb knuckle closest to my palm in the joint that is created by my jaw and bone that is immediately behind my ear, this also puts a knuckle right at the corner of my eye for a 4th anchor point.
hope this helps.
but Ted i know these guys they are gonna want to see pictures which will help everyone help you better.
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golden eagle talon 70# 29"draw
30" 340 beman ics venture w/ 115 gr muzzy BH
hha infringer sight
golden key futura rest
allen nu-glove release
I live with fear and evil everyday....and sometimes i leave her and go huntin.
ok Al,i will have to try to get a picture and down load it,this is all different to me i had to go from R/H to Left because of going blind in right eye,i can get another half in. out this without changing the mod but i need press for an x force,i have an omni bech press but it won't work on the xf,i shoot a glove release also i'm shooting a winn free flight rope release........Ted
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Genesis 27:3 please take your weapons,your quiver and your bow,and go out to the field and hunt game -------------phil. 4:19 And my God shall supply all your needs
IMO, people have too long of a draw because they can hold it easier by locking thier arm back. IMO, AL draw is way too long. If you have to put your kisser more than one inch higher than top of you nocking point, then its too long. Also, I like to have another anchor. And thats my release hand under my jaw. With these short bows, people feel the need to have the string touch thier nose, but IMO, this is not neccessary.
If you set your anchor so your release hand is not all the way back under your ear and under the jaw, this give you room for followthru on your shot. In other words, pulling thru the shot, not gripping your release, bow shoulder down.
Classic too long draws usually have the archer leaning back.
Location: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Posts: 2,188
RE: proper anchor point
This is an old picturefrom June or July of last year. However, it illustrates what big is talking about as far as anchor point and draw length is concerned.
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Bowtech Allegiance 75# 30" DL
Vapor Trail String/cables
G5 Optix ME w/ Fitz Fibers
QAD Ultra-Rest PRO HD
Location: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Posts: 2,188
RE: proper anchor point
Thanks guys. WhenI bought that bow my old bow had a 28.5" DL and when I told the guy at the shop he just looked at me and said, "You are 30" or 30.5." I was also using one of the Truball releases with the long jaw. Had me all messed up. I took me most of last year to fix what 1 bad fitted bow and release had done to me.
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Bowtech Allegiance 75# 30" DL
Vapor Trail String/cables
G5 Optix ME w/ Fitz Fibers
QAD Ultra-Rest PRO HD
Ok, maybe it's just how I got started and what I'm used to, but...... If you use a peep and the same anchor with your hand, why do you need the kisser button? I shoot with a few guys that "have" to have that kisser and I don't get it. They have been shooting league for years and I outshoot them easily with a lot less practice. How many of you guys actually use the kisser button?