Ok, I changed out my MZE to a QAD ultra LD. I love the QAD. Its on my bowtech liberty. I changed out my limbs not too long ago, and new winner choice string.
Ok, I start off paper tuning and I have to push the rest towards the riser. Way towards the riser or I will get a nock left tear!!!
I go out and bare shaft tune and only way to get it right is to move the rest towards the riser. If I set it to center by eyeballing or laser, it shows a weak arrow condition. I know this is not the issue, because I can set the bow to 60lbs or 70lbs and get this same weak arrow condition. So I tried two different arrows, beman black max 340 and carbon express Edge CX 350. Same deal.
I know there is no clearance issues, I check and check again.
I then move to broadhead tune and also get great flight and broadheads line up with field points all the way out to 50 yards if I move the rest towards the riser.
Now the normal thing I know to do when my broadheads group way right of my field points is move the rest away from the riser. But that makes it worse.
So what I am saying is the bow is shooting better than it ever has, broadheads and field points are hitting same POI out to 50-60 yards, and I am getting awesome groups out there, but I have to move my rest way towards my riser.
I never did get a great tune with the MZE and hated getting cable wear from it. Only way to getclearance I needed to cross cable over the slide. And had to change out my limbs and can't go back.
Could the rest be twisted somehow? I'm not sure if I can explain what I am think correctly but could the rest not be "parallel", even just a slight bit? I am not familiar with that rest so I don't know if it could be but, in looking at my limbdriver and the metal "Y" that the arrow rests on, it would be possible for that why to be slightly twisted if something bent it somehow.
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Nature does nothing uselessly.
- Aristotle -
Is the liberty a dual cam bow? I just replaced my strings on my parker and had kind of the same problem. Would get a right tear(point left fletching right)instead. Uncommon for right hand release according to easton tuning guide. It didnt matter what i did. changed to weaker spine increased poundage move rest right and left worked on grip and form changed to a drop away and still couldnt get it to paper tune. Then i started looking at the cams. The timing was right on but the cam lean at full draw was quite a bit so seeings my bow is a dually i just twisted the split bus to offset lean and whamo perfect bullet holes. I'm sure this probably isnt the same problem but just a suggestion.
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Parker Buck Hunter 70# @ 29in.
Ripcord Fall Away
Easton Axis 340 FMJ w/rage 3 blade
Savage Striker .308 Pistol with bi-pod and scope
Benelli M1 12 ga.
Is the liberty a dual cam bow? I just replaced my strings on my parker and had kind of the same problem. Would get a right tear(point left fletching right)instead. Uncommon for right hand release according to easton tuning guide. It didnt matter what i did. changed to weaker spine increased poundage move rest right and left worked on grip and form changed to a drop away and still couldnt get it to paper tune. Then i started looking at the cams. The timing was right on but the cam lean at full draw was quite a bit so seeings my bow is a dually i just twisted the split bus to offset lean and whamo perfect bullet holes. I'm sure this probably isnt the same problem but just a suggestion.
Nope its a single cam. I have no cam lean. Its been checked with a spot hog laser. But can definatly see how it causes it. everytime I have seen the nock right tear, its been because of clearance.
I'm assuming you checked the Idler lean also, correct? I have seen Mathew's bows tear left no matter who shoots them and the rest must be moved to the right towards the riser to tear a bullet hole. Set the Idler lean and it moves back out where it needs to be. If you haven't checked it, I suggest giving that a try.
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2008 Redhead Toxik - 68lbs, 26"
QAD Ultra-Rest
S-coil Stabilizer
Axcel Armortech HD sight
Scott Wildcat release
Any time I've run into this it's been idler/cam lean. The worst was my Old Glory which I couldn't remedy until I slapped a damn whacky basket on it but I know that's just masking the problem, not solving it. I put the QAD on my old UltraTec and it's worked great there.
Any time I've run into this it's been idler/cam lean. The worst was my Old Glory which I couldn't remedy until I slapped a damn whacky basket on it but I know that's just masking the problem, not solving it. I put the QAD on my old UltraTec and it's worked great there.
Only thing I haven't checked was idler lean at full draw. Have to figure out how to do it.
Only thing I haven't checked was idler lean at full draw. Have to figure out how to do it.
If you can get someone else to draw it you can stand behind them and see it by lining up the string with the center line of the limb from behind to see if it's inside or outside of center.
Only thing I haven't checked was idler lean at full draw. Have to figure out how to do it.
If you can get someone else to draw it you can stand behind them and see it by lining up the string with the center line of the limb from behind to see if it's inside or outside of center.
Well, I rigged up my own little full draw tool from a hook on the ceiling and a second person holding and with the laser, it says I have no cam lean at full draw or let down. I can't figure it out. I think I am going leave it as it is with the rest close to the riser. There is no way I have a weak arrow reaction. Its 350 express edges at 29" length. These are the same arrows, I shoot out of my commander at 72# and nothing out of the ordinary there.
A lot of times when I have issues such as that,the rest is causing the problem,try another rest just to see what will happen.Rest are very important in the tuning process.Even a good rest can be bad.
Very interesting QAD Tune
