RE: How do I properly tune my bow?
Brian,
One of the first steps is trying to get your nock point set. You can get a squaring device, and usually get pretty close, set the nock say 3/16" about the exact square point, and watch your arrow to make sure it doesn't "porpoise (up and down movement as it leaves the bow)," and then fine tune from there. I usually get my nock point set first, then eyeball the rest if I'm the one putting the rest on, then set ONE pin on your sites up to be good at 15-20yds, remember to "chase the arrow" when setting the site up (if you hit high, move the site up, hit to the left, move the site to the left). Once you've got the sight set, walk back 10 yds and shoot 3 arrows using the same pin on the same aiming point, then walk back another 10, and repeat. If you're pattern looks like this " l " , then the rest is pretty well centered, if it looks like this " / " then the rest needs moved to the right, if it looks like " \ " move the rest to the LEFT. move the rest in very SMALL increments, and then go back to setting the top pin again as you began. Fine tune it, and repeat the WALKBACK process. Once you get to a pattern that look like this " l ", you are set as far as moving the rest LEFT/RIGHT. Easton's website has some good guidance on doing this, but this is a quick way to get everything CLOSE. You can get into paper tuning, etc, but I've found that it just mixes things up more than anything for me. Good Luck, and TFOX is probably going to BLAST me for down-grading paper tuning, but I've just found it doesn't get me where I need to be when I walk away from the paper and attempt to shoot groups and farther distances. I end up changing things again, after FINALLY getting "bullet-holes."
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~Doug~ Hoyt AM35 29" 60# & Trykon XL's 29"-70# TT Shaky Hunter's x2 Sword Sights x2 Cabela's Carbon Stalker Extreme(MADE IN USA)
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