I'm playing around with some different stabilizers on my Hoyt Protec. There seems to be some disparity among other archers I know about what is the desired effect, in terms of the bow's balance, of the stabilizer. With an S-coil, the bow wants to tip back at the top a bit. I have learned to shoot it pretty well that way, though.
With a 10" Doinker, it balances pretty neutral.Some guys are saying the bow should rock forward after the shot - and, of course, those are the guys using the real long arm stabilizers for 3-D. I want something effective, but not so long and heavy that the bow is no longer practical for hunting. Any thoughts on this one?
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A man has got to know his limitations . . . . .
I want the bow to do as little as possible with respect to static and dynamic balance..........in any plane. I don't want itpulling forward, backward, sideways or anyways but as straight to the target as possible at full draw or at the shot.
IT depends on the bow , some like a small one ,some larger , I remember the first run patriot shot best with a small one in the rear faceing hole , and nothing in front
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Wear a full harness and tie yourself to your tree !
Take a kid hunting or fishing .
Nocks , the most overlooked component .
I don't really know much about stabilizers but I try to get one that will balance well and will dampen the sound when shot. The longest stabilizer i want is 6", no more than 10oz of wieght. I have the stealth stab and it does wonders on my bow.
My choice too. I won't put anything on a bow I can't hunt with.
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I would recommend a light weight, tubular aluminum stabilizer approximately 10" to 12" in lengthwith the capability of adding weight to the front. You don't need mass weight at the handle, but with the addition of light weightscrewed into the front will adjust the balance forward. When you hold the bow in you bow hand the top should want to start tilting forward. Stay away from stabilizers with rubber inserts or joints. They will harden in cold weather and definitely change the tuning of your set up.
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Find Arthur P's post on tiller tuning. That should eliminate the top limb kicking back at the shot. You definitely don't want that, it pushes the rest up into the arrow as it passes and makes things harder to tune and less forgiving. I always want my target bows to fall away drastically and my hunting bow to be at least neutral after the shot. As far as the ideal length on a target stabilizer, it's the length that puts the bow at your waist so you can load an arrow comfortably with the bow standing on the nose of the stabilizer. For hunting it's as long as you can have it without weight/clearance issues, for me that's an S-Coil.
Being how I dont grip(fingers on front of riser in full draw)the bow really its more of a balance between my thumb and pointer finger I want a stabilzer thatkeeps a good balance(5"works for me), after I release a arrow the top ofbow canters forward and the wrist strap keeps it from falling.In 24 yrs I cant remember when I picked this form up but it works well for me.....I cant see gripping as in with useing fingers to help hold bow....on full draw...........
Ideal Stabilizer Length and Weight?
For hunting it's as long as you can have it without weight/clearance issues, for me that's an S-Coil.
