How to set your bow's tiller

[loogout1]

So, if I understand this correctly, the objective is to NOT have the top and bottom limb bolts equally screwed in(for lack of a better description). Say a bottomed out bow has a 70lb pull weight, then to adjust tiller you would back off the top bolt until correct. Once correct, in theory, you would not be shooting at 70lbs anymore. Am I right? The supposed increase in arrow speed would be from the bow working more efficient?

[Arthur P]

Most bows will peak at over their list poundage with the bolts cranked all the way down. As long as their strings and cables are the proper lengths, that is. So it would still be very possible to have your 70 pound bow pull 70 pounds with the tiller adjusted this way.

IF the arrow speed increases - I have seen it happen many times, but it doesn't happen every time - then yes. It is because the bow is working more efficiently.

[Greg / MO]

Bump for some great technical info.

[Roskoe]

I've been playing with this for a couple of weeks now - with fairly encouraging results. But only with Hoyt bows - with thedual cams. I can't help but wonder if this whole tiller tuning thing will work the same for single cam (like the Mathews) bows. Anyone haveany experience here?

[Greg / MO]

From Arthur's post...

Some say tiller doesn't matter on single cam bows and I've always said that's a load of rubbish. It works just the same on any bow, no matter what style cam(s) it has.

[kwilson16]

Arthur-
You need to write a book. I'll buy the first copy.

[Roskoe]

I'm having kind of a tough time visualizing this whole thing when it comes to single cam bows. I would venture that it is no small coincidence that all solo cam bows have the round wheel at the top. Got to be something along the same linesof what Arthur was describing when talked about the nock and arrow rest being in the center of the bow, and the point of connection to the shooter (aka the grip) being below center. But having the top wheel round, and bottom wheel shaped to alter the force curve, has got to be doing some lop-sided things to the tiller measurements during the draw cycle.

Or maybe I just don't understand the concept of the solo cam bow [8D]

[nodog]

ORIGINAL: Roskoe

I've been playing with this for a couple of weeks now - with fairly encouraging results. But only with Hoyt bows - with thedual cams. I can't help but wonder if this whole tiller tuning thing will work the same for single cam (like the Mathews) bows. Anyone haveany experience here?

If you think it through you can see cams have little to do with it. It's has to do with evening out the strengt of the top and bottom limbs. Since forces are different on each the fix is with the bolts. I do think manufacturers understand this and have done things to rectify the imbalance. A lot of sweet shooters right out of the box these days says something.

There's a great deal of frustration in archery. Trying to figure out why arrows don't go where they're supposed to takes people down many roads. IMO it's often the arrow.

My Hoyt Protec needs the top limbs lightened up a bit. I'm sure the reflex bows need the same. They all will shoot very well regardless; Best with good arrows.

A bow is just like a kids sling shot, evening things out is best. Just a big boy toy.

[ash2042]

Wow some great info right there. The things you need to know that you thought you knew!

[MDBUCKHUNTER]

Arthur,

Amazing post! Question: when you are holding your bow to check your current tiller setup, are you gripping it like you are in a shooting situation or are you holding it with an open palm to see how the bow moves?

Again, great post.