AL... F

i may need to take out my bh inserts and remove all the epoxy some of them are hitting lower consistantly.
i dont think they were installed correctly.
I dont want to damage the integrity of the arrows, what is the best way to get the inserts and all the epoxy out...new arrows are not an option.
thanks .

OHbowhntr

Are they spinning true??? If so, leave them alone, you don't need to do anything except adjust your rest up or nock point down, depending on how things are set up. The problem may be the BH's also, as I've heard several people having issues w/ Muzzy's this year.

OHbowhntr

Also, if the check I just ran is right, you may need to move up on your BH weight to get a better FOC. Use the calculator here: http://home.att.net/%7Esajackson/arrow_ics.html and it may help a little. Just guessing at your exact arrow set-up, I plot you needing a 140gr BH to get a 10% FOC, also this site: http://home.att.net/%7Esajackson/archery.html , the main site the above link came from has some great easy to use calculators for guestimating. Hope that helps a little.

Arthur P

You're dealing with carbon arrows now and they are a different beast than your good ol' 2117's.

While most all you hear about with carbons is how wonderful and light and fast they are, they do have issues. One issue is they aren't anywhere near as easy to work with as aluminum. With aluminum you just heat 'em up, melt the adhesive and remove the inserts. Not carbon!

Carbons are made with carbon fabric and thermoset resin glue. You can't heat 'em up enough to melt the epoxy without melting the shaft as well. Once you epoxy inserts in 'em, they're done. There is no easy way to get them out and, even if you do manage that feat, there's no way in the world to get the epoxy out of the shafts.

Oh, if you're really, really careful and apply heat to the field point only, to slowly heat the insert a little at a time, and constantly check to see if it's heated enough to come out, then you can remove inserts without damaging the shaft... or so they say. I've been able to do it a few times. Ruined a lot more shafts than I saved though.

I seriously doubt your problem is with the inserts anyway. Which leads us to another issue.

The #1 issue with carbon arrows is they can't come close to matching the consistency of aluminum arrows. You will rarely find an entire half dozen that will all shoot to the same hole when you mount broadheads on them. The longer your arrows, the more acute the problem and, at 30", you're shooting arrows made from almost full length shafts. I do shoot full length shafts, so I'm intimately acquainted with this problem.

If you had a dropaway rest, you could turn the nocks on the ones dropping out of the group and see if maybe you can bring them back in. You can do that to some extent with a whisker bisquit but you won't be able to do that with a plain rest. Clearance problems are worse than what you're dealing with already.

The problem is the shafts, not the broadheads, not the inserts. If you're determined to stick with carbon, the only real solution is to buy some more and try and get another few that shoot with the good ones you've already got. Put field points on the ones that don't group and use them for practice. Put blunts on them and use 'em for bunny thumpers. They'll do fine as long as you don't mount broadheads on them.

If you want to get arrows you can count on all shooting together, the only real solution for us long arrow guys is to go back to aluminum.

nodog

Best way to remove them is to pull the knock, insert a weight that will fit easily, and swing the shaft so that it slams into the insert. It will come right out after a few hits. You can clean the shaft if you want to by sticking the end in a can of acetone and letting it sit for a few minutes.

I'm with the others. Don't think it's your problem. If there all doing it, that's great (doesn't not help Arthurs argument though on inconsistancy ). Sounds like you just need to get things shooting right. It's hard for me to see how an insert could be put in wrong. I could see how one could be milled bad, and you could have a bad batch. Doubt it though. I wouldn't reglue the old one's. Get new if ya really think you need them.

nodog

Before you do anything take a turn out of your top limb bolt, if you can take another one. I f you can't put one in the bottom.

Arthur P

Maybe you read it different than I did. I thought he said SOME are hitting consistently lower. Let's see...

Yep. That's what he said alright. Go get yerself another cup o' coffee, nodog. [8D]

Paul L Mohr

I can't think of anything that would get the epoxy off that wouldn't ruin the integrity of the arrow. At least nothing I would want to try after seeing picks of arrows stuck in guys hands. Just ain't worth it to me.

Like Arthur said, that is what sucks about carbons. Everyone wants you think they are perfect, but there are pros and cons to each.

Paul

nodog

OK

Roskoe

Are you using the HIT hidden inserts, or the regular ones where there is a little metal of the insert showing at the end of the arrow? If it is the latter, find someone who has a precision machine lathe and have them make a light face cut across the front of each insert. This will square up each head as it shoulders up against the insert. I have seen this solve serveral issues such as yours without risking trying to remove the insert.