Bow forgiveness?

Jonathan Kelly · 01-15-2003, 04:08 PM

What are some things that you can do to a bow to make it more forgiving and accurate?

bear72 · 01-15-2003, 06:52 PM

I've heard that the slower the bow is the more accurate it is not sure if it's true.also a longer axle to axle is more forgiving in my opinion.

martinbowhunter · 01-15-2003, 07:26 PM

i have a question, i just got a new bow and the brace hieght is a little short for my liking, and i must be grabbing the bow or slamming the release, i cant get a good tear at all when paper tuning no matter how hard we try to get the rest in tune, it has got to be me. Any suggestions on how to fix it. no matter what we do my tears are allways with the piont to the left and the fletching to the right, sometimes the fleatching is even pointed downward a little at an angle. PLEASE HELP!!!!

tobyn · 01-15-2003, 08:53 PM

SLOWING THE BOW DOWN HELPS...REDUCING THE DRAW WEIGHT...HEAVY ARROW BIGGER FLECTHINGS.

DaveC · 01-17-2003, 03:08 AM

Martinbowhunter, are your arrows properly spined for your set up? Download the easton tuning guide (from the easton websight) and it will help you with your papertuning.

Maverick3d · 01-17-2003, 06:07 AM

I agree with DaveC. Make sure your arrows are properly splined. Remember to that paper tuning is not every thing. You may have a small tare but the groups are very good. You could also shoot a bullet hole and not group worth a darn.

God is Good

Arthur P · 01-17-2003, 08:04 AM

Some bows are not designed to be forgiving at all and you have to have everything - arrow spine, tune, intense concentration, and your shooting form - absolutely perfect to get them to shoot halfway decently. Heavily reflexed risers, short axle to axle length, radical cams and low brace heights are geared toward speed, NOT forgiveness.

Bows that have deflex risers, much longer axle to axle (over 40&quot

, soft cams or round eccentrics and high brace heights sacrifice speed for ultimate forgiveness and consistent accuracy. You can get away with some concentration lapses and form breaks and still shoot one accurately.

And there are all kinds of bows in between. Instead of basing your choice of bows on IBO ratings, you should choose a design of bow based on your shooting needs. Generally speaking, because there are exceptions to every rule, you must sacrifice speed for forgivness and you must sacrifice forgiveness for speed.

Choosing the correct bow design for you, with a grip that fits your hand well and has a comfortable draw weight/holding weight, is the first step in setting up a forgiving, accurate rig.

A thorough tune up with perfectly matched arrows is the icing on the cake - and I agree with Maverick that paper tuning is just one step in the process, not the end result. But if you don't have a bow that is capable of the level of forgiveness you want, no amount of tuning will get it done.

2droptine · 01-17-2003, 04:27 PM

I would disagree with the statement:
tobyn: SLOWING THE BOW DOWN HELPS...REDUCING THE DRAW WEIGHT...HEAVY ARROW BIGGER FLECTHINGS
A bow will shoot more accurately at its biggest poundage setting, most manufacturers will tell you so right in the manual, it is designed to work that way. A 70 lb bow will be more accurate set at 70 lbs than the same bow all things being equal set at 60 lbs. Also as far a brace height and forgiveability goes, I could give two &$%^$ about brace height only because of my short draw length, those with long draw lengths should definately take a long look at brace height.

WWW.HABITATHEROES.COM

Arthur P · 01-17-2003, 04:47 PM

The manuals say that bows give their best performance (read as speed) and shoot quietest at their maximum poundage. That does not necessarily equate to their best accuracy. I've had quite a few bows that I had to adjust one limb or the other a good bit to get them in proper tiller for my shooting form and wound up several pounds below their maximum draw weight before they'd shoot accurately.

martinbowhunter · 01-17-2003, 05:13 PM

yea guys, when i got my bow all set up i did it at the pro shop and we looked at the easton chart there and there was two arrows for my set up. One was w/ less spine and the other w/ a little more spine. i decided on the one with more spine. the tears are not that great but my groups are consistant. the only prob it that i am shooting to the right. I will move my sight tonight and see how it works out. Thanks for the replys.