Arrow help

redfish86 · 09-26-2007, 04:51 PM

1st post here. Been reading for a while. The arrow selection guides are pretty self explanatory but I'm not sure about some ?'s about my bow. Bowtech Diamond Rapture. 60#. The arrows I was sold when I bought it are 29 1/2 total length from nock to point of 100gr. field tips. I've been trying to get it dialed in but have changed a couple things so I am starting again. Just put a fall away rest on (Trophy Taker). The Hostage just seemed to interfere w/ arrow flight too much. I was hitting consistent 4" groups from 30 yds til I started messing with it. The arrows seem to fishtail or corksrew as they fly to target. I am wondering if they are wrong size. They are "RedHead 4560 Carbon Fury" . I figured I would destory several being a newbie so I wasn't too choosy for this 1st set. Anyways, like I said I can do the calculator stuff but 2 questions. Does this bow have "High Energy", "round wheel" or "modifed" cams? The top wheel is round the bottom looks like a regular "cam" shape. Also, "Fast Flight" or "Dacron" string?

Thanks in advance.

Brian

millerhunter13 · 09-26-2007, 07:33 PM

ok i can not help you with most of the stuff, sorry, but i can tell you this take it to a proshop, not gander or basspro ect. take it to a certified proshop or have a buddy who knows bout this stuff and they can help ya, but i do know that the carbon furry arrows are good arrows for the buy, and for a newbie 4" groupings dosnt sound too bad or i could be wrong dont know.
mike

redfish86 · 09-26-2007, 07:58 PM

Thanks.

Ithought proshop was the answer but nearest one is about 1.5 hours away.[:@]

BGfisher · 09-26-2007, 08:50 PM

Not to be argumentative, but I've been in archery (not just bowhunting) for 35 years and would like to know what is a "certified" Pro Shop. Just because a guy hangs a shingle outside and sells bows does not mean he is a pro. And it doesn't mean he or his emplyees know all the idiosincracies of a bow.

And even so, how does a novice know the difference between a good shop, a bad shop, and a box store? And truth be known, some box stores have some pretty knowledeable employees working in them. It's hit-or-miss. That's why it's wise for anybody to know how to work on their own bow. At least the basics like setting rest height and centershot, installing nocking points and peeps and such.

Download a copy of Easton's Tuning Guide and larn a lot of this stuff. Also learn how to tune your own equipment. The more you learn the less daunting it becomes. You might een find it fun like I do.

Now that I've ranted let's get to the question. Firstly, arrows are measured from the nock groove to the end of the shaft. You do not include the tip. This is in the tuning guide, too. Measure again and I'll bet you get closer to 29".

The bow has a hard cam (high energy). It has "fast flight" rigging (string & cable). What is the measured draw weight of the bow and the present draw length?

Your arrows are marked 4560. That is supposedly the working range of the arrows. 45# to 60#. Of course that is within a certain length range which is never given. If your bow is set at 60# or more I would suspect the arrows are underspined.

The fact that your arrows are corkscrewing can mean possible fletching clearance and/or spine issues. The rest should be set so it raises up in the last 1"-2" of the draw cycle. Sooner than this and it may not be dropping soon enough to clear your fletching.

Centershot of the rest might be off too. This is where the Tuning Guide comes in. You need to start from scratch and set things close to where they should be. When you start tuning you'll most likely have to change them a little (nocking point/rest position). Maybe even have to change the weight of the bow. By the way, that's why bows have limb bolts. They're not decorations like hood ornaments.

OK, now that you're totally confused I'll go away.

Straightarrow · 09-27-2007, 04:42 AM

Quote:

And even so, how does a novice know the difference between a good shop, a bad shop, and a box store? And truth be known, some box stores have some pretty knowledeable employees working in them. It's hit-or-miss.

This is so true, and is why I always suggest that people ask around and find out which shop has the people knowledable enough to earn their business.

BGfisher · 09-27-2007, 08:35 AM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Straightarrow

Quote:

And even so, how does a novice know the difference between a good shop, a bad shop, and a box store? And truth be known, some box stores have some pretty knowledeable employees working in them. It's hit-or-miss.

This is so true, and is why I always suggest that people ask around and find out which shop has the people knowledable enough to earn their business.

Yeh, but as with so many things in life the beginner may not even know what to ask or who to ask, or who to believe. Talk about a big Catch 22.

ijimmy · 09-27-2007, 08:57 AM

I think you are underspined allso , you need a stiffer arrow

redfish86 · 09-28-2007, 04:38 PM

Well, I went to a "Pro" shop today. Had the "feel goods" when I left as the guy seemed very knowlegable, spent a lot of time on my bow. Changed how the cable attached to the fall away, changed how the peep tubing was attached to the cables, made other adjustments, etc. Got back home (1.5 hours) and shot about 10 arrows before the "new" cable attachment for fall away broke. Now I can't shoot at all. Upon closer onspection, the tubing that the guy retied (actually, he took off the "hitch" knot that used to attach it to the cables and ran it in between the strands and secured w/ a brass nock) is torn about 80% thru. 1 more shot and it would have broken too. I guess I'll go back to Bass Pro. The level of expertise is probably the same and it's only 15 minutes away. VERY frustrating.