Ok so I want to shorten my draw length about a 1/4 of an inch to a 1/2 an inch. I have the hoyt havoctec with the dual track idler wheel. How many twist would I have to put in each string to shorten lets say a 1/4 of an inch? Just tell me how many twists per separate string. Thanks.
alright! Can there be too many twists in the string? I'll start out doing about 5 in each string then keep trying until its perfect. By twisting the strings will this change my nocking point? elevation wise? I'll prolly take it to a bow shop to be sure, but just wondering. Thanks
alright! Can there be too many twists in the string? I'll start out doing about 5 in each string then keep trying until its perfect. By twisting the strings will this change my nocking point? elevation wise? I'll prolly take it to a bow shop to be sure, but just wondering. Thanks
Not usre whether it will change the nocking point. It shouldn't if you put equal amount of twists in each cable, but it sure doesn't hurt to check it's location before you start and then after.
Too many twists in string? If it the tyical factory string/cables have no fear. They normally only have about 1/5 the twists they should have in the first place. You can look at the cables when you're done. If it appears that there is one twist per inch or more then you should be good to go.
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I like a twist per inch , your string has a length it should be , the maker of the string determines how many twists per inch it takes to get to that length , and a good string will remain farely stable .
If you have a dual cam , binary cam , or hybred camed bow , with a string and 2 cabels , twisting the string will not effect nock point , or very little with a hybred . A single cam bow is drasticly effected by string and cable length , and their lengths will effect nock point , one reason I stay away from them , Ive bought a few , cant believe I havent learned my lesson yet .
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Over twisting is possible, the most simple design to work on is a Single Cam bow IMO, all you need is BH, ATA and Cam Rotation. If working on a single cam bow, the biggest thing that affects the DL is the cam roatation. Ideally if you get the ATA close, your can twist the cable and it will bring the cam around to proper orientation, without affecting the ATA too much. With the cam in proper orientation the BH should fall right on. One thing that is subjective is nock travel, and I will go far enough to say; that not one design gives 100% Perfect/Level Nock Travel. Someone said above that the string affects the nock point a lot on a single cam, well, if you put a quality string on, your don't have to worry about fussing with the nock point. 2 twists per inch is a maximum, I never go past there, if it takes more twisting than that your need a new string. The thing with single cams is, I don't need to synchrinize cams together, althought the Binary cams are supposed to work well out of time, I can see let-off and draw cycle being affected if so.
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I have a problem with her terminology. Better be sure, she's saying each string. Blondie there is only one "string" on a bow. The other/others are cables.
yeah, if you twist the cables you'll be getting longer.
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No, one cams are considered one string right all the way around the idler wheel back down to the cam again. Well mine is the hoyt versa cam with dual track idler wheel. so there is two strings connected to the idler wheel. I was figureing since my bow is a single cam, that those two string would basically be the one stringthat is on a single track idler wheel. Is that right? I didn't mess with the harness att all.
There is one string all the way around from the cam through the idler, to the cam again, but there is also a control cable so to speak, with a split harness commonly called a yoke that goes from the top limb(s) to the cam....
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twisting string?
