fishtailing

m9a9g9i9c · 09-02-2007, 12:53 PM

Are there other reasons than the position of your rest or nock that cause fishtailing ? I seem to have some arrows fishtailing and others that don't.
I shoot straight fletched and offset fletched arrows and sometimes they fishtail, sometimes they don't.
I thought it might be an arrow with bad fletching or something, but it's not the arrows....
....
I am shooting a tomkat 54#, DL 28.5 and a fuse WB which I aligned using Easton's tuning guide.

F.

Rob/PA Bowyer · 09-02-2007, 01:04 PM

How hard is the offset fletch? Isn't offset fletch hard through a WB, the drag on the arrow has to be tremendous, plus any torque on the bow at all with all that contact has to cause bad effects on the arrow.

Check for any fletch contact on your cables ect as well.

m9a9g9i9c · 09-02-2007, 01:14 PM

it's a slight offset but even the straight fletched arrows sometimes fishtail.
I will try and see if I have contact with the cables, will be hard tho', I can't use the powderspray cuz of the WB.
I think it could be in the way I draw. I noticed that when I yank to full draw it gets worse....when I slowly draw it doesn't happen that often.

F.

WesternMdHardwoods · 09-02-2007, 01:42 PM

Did you try and turn the nock?? Im not sure hat the process is called but you turn the nock on the arrow to a different odd feather to find th estiff part of the shaft?!?!? Im sure someone will chime in on this?!?

Redneck Bowhunter · 09-02-2007, 01:59 PM

Im, guessing that it will be your form and grip position. When you draw slowly you would have a more stable and consistent grip throughout the draw but when you yank it back it is likely to change during the draw. You shouild set your grip and then leave it like that always. Never change your grip during you draw or during your aiming period.

You want your lifeline of your palm to reside on the middle of the grip. Your fingers should not touch the bow, but simply curl around and hang. You want your hand to be at a 45 degree downward angle to the grip. To get it consistent each time and put it into your subconcious, you should do some blank bale shooting before and after you practice. But, make sure that you work on only your grip. Then once that is consistent you can move on to the next truoble area of your form.

RIStrutStopper · 09-02-2007, 07:01 PM

Its wierd but I have this problem too. Usually, a couple weeks before the season I break out some broadheads and shoot. I usually group right with my broadheads. Ishot today, and couldn't believe what I saw. First 2 shots at 20 were fine, one broadhead and one field point, hit dead on. Moved to 30 and my first arrow fishtailed and took a dive, hit about 6-7 inches low at 30. My next arrow was a field point, it hit dead on. 3rd arrow, another broadhead. It grouped with my field point. Changed heads a couple times, now I have 2 arrows that shoot dead on withbroadheads and 2 that dont. I've got about 2 weeks to the season, and I ran out of time at the range. Had told a land owner I was coming by this afternoon to hang a stand, I didn't wanna not show up. I've got a little more work to do before I'll feel comfortable this season.

OHbowhntr · 09-02-2007, 07:19 PM

Likely a gripping problem, I ran through the same thing a little bit, the other thing I found was that I had to relax my wrist on my right hand, because I was actually pulling the string out of alignment w/ the rest sometimes, resulting in erratic shooting. Get you mechanics perfect, then go through them EVERY shot. I got myself into a routine about 3yrs ago, and have shot much better every since. I found that hooking my thumb behind my neck helps me hit a consistent anchor point nearly every time. I have to remind myself to

Quote:

"Draw easy, relax your grip, loosen up your wrist,hook the thumb, steady the pin, and GENTLY squeeze, and for Christ's Sake, DON'T PUNCH that trigger anymore."

Redneck Bowhunter · 09-02-2007, 07:30 PM

Well, IMO if you can hook your thumb behind your neck then your draw length is to long. I concentrate on the position of my shoulder blade (scapula) in relation to my spine so that I can execute proper back tension on the shot. That is my first referance point. I do not use any referances on my face because your face can tense up and change position resulting in inconsistancy. My second referance is obviously my peep sight. Once those are in position then I aim, and squeeze my rhomboids and levator scapulae muscles moving my elbow perpendicular to the string and triggering my release.