something I might have overlooked

m9a9g9i9c · 08-19-2007, 09:17 AM

When I'm fletching I push the glued vane on the shaft and once it sticks, I rotate to glue another one.
Do I have to keep applying pressure and wait a few seconds longer before I glue another vane ?
I'm using the bohning glue but I think it's not that good as their vanes...

F.

Redneck Bowhunter · 08-19-2007, 11:32 AM

It should say on the glue bottle how long to give pressure. On the Goat Tuff which I use I apply pressure for 10 seconds, open the clamp then pull away and rotate arrow to do the next vane. So far they are super strong, and I can't even pull them off.

KodiakArcher · 08-19-2007, 11:37 AM

I use a 6 arrow jig so by the time I've got 6 set I can go back to the first and remove it. I give FletchTite a couple minutes to set before I remove the clamp with vanes, with feathers I give it longer since they have some memory to them and want to lift off on their own.

m9a9g9i9c · 08-19-2007, 12:15 PM

Redneck has made a good point, we should clean the vanes as well, they come out of a mold ( solid metal mold where the liquid plastic is pushed into ) the mold is sometimes covered with a substance that prevents sticking. If residue is left on the vane, you'll have problems.....

F.

SouthDakotaHunter · 08-19-2007, 01:32 PM

Theglue I use is made by Arizona Archery. I generally apply pressure for 10 - 15 seconds before rotating.

Arthur P · 08-19-2007, 04:57 PM

Do not clean the bases of Bohning vanes. Bohning cleans the parting compound from their vanes and applies chemicals to the bases on all their vanes to help them adhere better.

MDBUCKHUNTER · 08-19-2007, 06:56 PM

I use 300 grit sand paper on the bottom of my bohning vanes. Just a few swipes and a bead of Goat Tuff. 10 seconds and you are done with the first vane.

Although Bohning does clean their vanes, it still does not remove the oils from packaging and handling. That's why I use the sandpaper and my vanes are rock solid.

Find what works best for you and use it. Making your own arrows Frank is a trial and error methodology. Best of Luck!

devil dog · 08-19-2007, 07:31 PM

I also hit my Blazers with 300grit and wipe them with some rubbingalcohol, on new shafts I wipe the area where the vanes will go with the alcohol, when refletching, I use scotch-brite to clean off the debris, then wipe down with alcohol. Since I started doing it this way I never have any problems with vanes comeing off even with pass-throughs.

m9a9g9i9c · 08-20-2007, 12:35 PM

hey MD,

Do you use the helical clamp for your blazers, I think that's one reason why I had problems with them not sticking.
Second is maybe the glue, I use the bohning glue and it doesn't hold that good. I am trying now not to use too much glue, I think it gives the WB more to get caught on.
You know what's strange, the first arrows I started shooting were fletched with short 2" vanes, half the hight as blazers and I never lost a vane. The guy at my shop did them and he did some blazers as well and they were falling off after 4 or 5 shots...
So I guess I'm not the only one having problems.....

F

Redneck Bowhunter · 08-20-2007, 02:50 PM

The batch I did with the Goat Tuff and cleaning the bases of the vanes with Isopropyl are rock solid. I cannot even rip them off with my hands. I used some shaft cleaner and a scotch brite pad to prep the shafts. Then washed them in hot water and air dried them. It works for me.