One can tune a bow to have good arrow flight, even though the tiller could be totally screwed. It's much harder to do than when the bow is properly tillered, but it can be done. This is especially true with a single cam bow, which leads some to say that you don't have to worry about tiller with a single cam. The fact they're totally wrong doesn't keep them from saying it though.
Where tiller really works either for you or against you is with performance. I'm not talking just speed here. I'm talking the whole package. Smoothness of draw, being able keep a steadier hold on target, shock and vibration, noise and, to a lesser degree, speed are all improved when the bow is tillered right. Not just set to zero on each end of the riser, but custom adjusted to fit your unique grip and shooting form.
Guys that bury their limb bolts as tight as they can go and leave them there forever have absolutely no idea what I mean, but they've never experienced a properly tuned bow.
I'd say experiment and you will see the difference very quickly. My bow shoots best with the top bolts 1.5 turns less than the bottom. Really doesn't take much of a change to see the difference for the good or bad.
In addition to what Arthur says about tuning for grip and form, tiller is important because most manufacturers give tuning detail for their bows, based on even tiller. None of the bows I've bought ever came with tiller being exactly even with the bolts tightened all the way down. Timing marks, ATA, brace height and draw weight are based on even tiller. Once you get everything the way the mfgr recommends and tuned to perfection, then adjusting tiller is easy, because the only adjustment you need to make after changing the tiller is with the nocking point. In fact, if your nocking point is off a hair, making very small tiller adjustments can be the easiest way to very small adjustments.
When it comes to tuning their setups, the things most overlooked by the average bowhunter - spine tuning arrows, and adjusting tiller.
In addition to what Arthur says about tuning for grip and form, tiller is important because most manufacturers give tuning detail for their bows, based on even tiller. None of the bows I've bought ever came with tiller being exactly even with the bolts tightened all the way down. Timing marks, ATA, brace height and draw weight are based on even tiller. Once you get everything the way the mfgr recommends and tuned to perfection, then adjusting tiller is easy, because the only adjustment you need to make after changing the tiller is with the nocking point. In fact, if your nocking point is off a hair, making very small tiller adjustments can be the easiest way to very small adjustments.
When it comes to tuning their setups, the things most overlooked by the average bowhunter - spine tuning arrows, and adjusting tiller.
So at what point in the tunning process should you make the tiller adjustments. Should you do it after you have nock point set and your arrows spine test and shooting bullet holes through paper?
So at what point in the tunning process should you make the tiller adjustments.
It's the second thing I do. First thing is to check the axle to axle length and brace height to make sure they are both in spec to begin with. After I make sure the tiller measures even at each end of the riser, then I set a nock point fairly close to where it should be. Then I go on to fine tune the tiller before actually getting into fine tuning the rest and nock height. Doing this preliminary tiller work makes the actual tuning of the bow go much easier and quicker.
Thanks guys,I think tiller is most often overlooked in a lot of archery shops,it seems they are eager to sell you a bow and set you up with some arrows then shoot through paper then declare that your bow is tunned perfect because you were shooting bullet holes through the paper.
tiller
