When I bought my Drenalin in may it came with a free paper tuning. They told me to shoot it for a while and than bring it in. The first thing he noticed was some wear on the spring suppressors. He put the bow in the press and twisted the string some and than the cable some. He said that would increase the brace height some and thus decrease the wear.
Next we shot diffferent arrows thru paper to see what would work best. The bow is maxed out at 74 lb.s with 27 inch draw length, vital bow gear dropaway rest. He thought I was over spined with my carbon express 300s and 100 grain points. I have 3 inch vanes on them. Five inch feathers and 125 grain points shot a nice hole, but my arrows tore downward. Eventually we ended up raising the nock point a half inch and switching to 125 grain points. I was hoping to put wraps on my arrow and try blazer vanes. I also made some homemade lumenocks, but now I am not sure if I want to add any wt. to the back end of my arrows. I know I could just go to a lighter arrow but have plenty of the 300s and hate to spend the extra money for new arrows. I could also go to feathers, or just leave it as it is without the wraps or lumenock. It is shooting great, so no complaints there. 271 fps. I am not much of a techie but would welcome comments.
I'm no techi either, but why would a new bow show wear on the limb supressors and why would he need to twist here and there to increase brace height,which i have never heard of, may be true though.It sounds like maybe he sold you a defective bow to begin with.MATHEWS makes great bows and there is no reason you should be having these problems and need the string and cables twisted.Take the bow back to the pro shop and have them to replace it with a new one.that bow cost too much money to have those type problems.If he will not replace the bow call a mathews rep.and tell him your story.
I doubt there is anything wrong with your bow. Mfgr supplied strings are notorious for not being the exact spec. length or they may have crept slightly. It's quite common to have to put a twist or two in a string or cable to bring the bow into tune.
As you say, your bow is shooting great. Since that's the goal, I don't know why you'd want to change anything. However, if you want to add weight to the rear, just add approximately the same amount to the front and you should be able to match the spine just right. You may have to adjust draw weight slightly and since down is the only way you can go, more weight on the tip than the rear will allow you to decrease poundage to match spine perfectly.
It's always perplexed me as to why people tend to ignore draw weight as a tuning tool, yet it seems 95% never touch it.
First thing I would do is start with a 1/8"-3/16" high nocking point. Then I would check to see if the cam was clocked per the factory recommendations and make adjustments to the cable (assuming your peep is rotating right) to get that cam clocked perfectly. To clock the cam there should be 2x little holes on either side and if you run a 3' piece of string across both so it is like a straight edge, it should be perfectly parallel to the string. I would then check and measure to make sure tiller was even (set to 0).
If at this point it was still turning up weird tears I would make fine adjustments to tiller (1/8 turn at a time) till they disappear.
Thanks for the replies guys. I found the two small holes and they do appear to run parallel to the string. I also checked the tiller and it seems to be at or very close to zero. Shot terrible this morning but that just might have been a still frazzled dabow ( got rear ended in an auto accident yesterday). I will see how I shoot in the morning.
Well i have had two drenalins,and had to twist up the yoke on the left side to get the lean out ,allway do this to every mathews i have owned,the roller guard put added stress on the idler wheel and the left side of the cable strechs,i allways put one full twist to start with,that will put it back in spec on the idler lean,some times two twist is required.
Paper tuning my Drenalin
