I recently discovered a cool tuning method called "French Tuning", which is kind of like walk back tuning but easier. Sight in a pin to hit dead on a small dot at 3yds. Shoot that same pin at 55-60 yds (should be close to dead on at that distance, but use a large target just in case.) If you are left or right, adust your rest to compensate. Repeat until perfect alignment at 3 yds and 60 yds.
Same concept.... you've got to walk back to get from 3 to 50 yards. I always alternate between 20 and 60 yards. No reason to start at 3 yards that I can think of, other than your sight will probably be near the same spot, vertically. Besides, I shoot small groups to eliminate shooter error and I wouldn't want to shoot groups at 3 yards.
Don't trust anything that says french in the name. My guess it means drop your bow and run in the other direction. LMAO!!! Sorry I can't take credit for this. Aussie Guy came up with that line. But I just had to use it just once. LOL
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It's a great tuning method, if you can shoot great shots. You should be able to hit a dot the size of pencil eraser at 3 yards, and a group the size of a softball at 65 or so for it to be effective. If you can accomplish this it is a great means of finding centershot for the bow.
Ifyou 'walk back' or 'french' tune with field tips, will yourbroadheads hit the same???
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Ifyou 'walk back' or 'french' tune with field tips, will yourbroadheads hit the same???
You and I both know the answer to that is not necessarily. It is a great way to start tuning for dynamic centershot, however there are too many other conditions such as cam/idler lean, spine, nock height, arrow clearance, etc that affect where a fixed blade broadhead will impact as compared to field points.
You know it and I know it, but how many on here think that one tuning method will solve their problems? How many truly know that they have a tuned system verses how many think they have a tuned system? How manydon't know that they lose energy/penetration when the 'system' isn't truly right?
Recently had a situation where a new bow would'walk back'and 'french' tune very well, but wouldn't paper tuneworth a darn.With all the tools I have and after changing string and cables, I was really leaning towards a riser problem.As a last resort I switched limbs and the problem was solved.
Further check by the manufacturer revealed that we had a weak side on one limb whichcaused dynamic problems. Bottom line is that the bow shot extremely well and I wouldn't have known thatany problem existed without good old paper tuning. Of course, you have to know how to do it correctly.
Good shooting.
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Start out with dynamic spine testing, then walk-back tune using broadheads and you'll know if you got everything right. If you can get your broadheads to fly perfectly, your field tips should follow suit.
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French Tuning
, but how many on here think that one tuning method will solve their problems? How many truly know that they have a tuned system verses how many think they have a tuned system? How manydon't know that they lose energy/penetration when the 'system' isn't truly right?
