shooting against the wall

[jevan]

I have a book from larry wise, tuning and shooting compounds . he suggest shooting from the middle of the valley, I agree with his reasoning but everything I have read and all the test in relationship to shooting against the wall seem to prove him wrong, my G2 has a valley only 1/2 inch and holding against the wall I shoot better, I couldn`t shoot from the valley if I wanted to because of the (arm rip off factor) if I entered into it too far, question??? where does everybody shoot from, and does he mean shoot from the valley with out a real defined wall, and large valley (round wheel bows)

Evan
Archery Accessories
301-872-0110

[Pinwheel 12]

Shooting from the middle of the valley was the "norm" on most two wheeled compounds some years ago. That is why clickers used to be so popular, there really was no defined "wall" on the older two wheelers, therefore to become repeatably consistent, you had to find a good point in the middle of the valley that was much more repeatable than the mushy back wall that also came up from peak let-off and added more holding weight to the mix on top of that mushy wall. The old two wheelers were notoriously difficult to find a repeatable spot with without a clicker or other means of determining your exact draw every time.

Nowadays, we just hog 'em back to a nice, solid wall, and let fly. Very repeatable. I think this is what Larry was talking about. Good shooting, Pinwheel 12

[Stealth_Force]

Also I believe that a large mushy wall is better for purpose made back tension releases. These need a bit of movement to go off. Bows with large mushy valleys are a bit more forgiving of over and/or under draw. If you START in the middle with a back tension release, your gonna start moving out of that valley when setting off a "purebred" back tension release.
Now, if your using a trigger or quality thumb release (Like a Chappy Boss) that takes VERY LITTLE rotation to set off (trigger doesn't even seem to move...ZERO percieved travel) you are better off starting agains't the "wall" if your bow HAS a "WALL" (read most solo cam bows, and newer cams with draw stops...NOT older round wheel bows). These newer bows are not quite as forgiving to under draw (or creep as many call it) Shooting agains't the wall keeps you consistant.
I have a lot of trouble shooting my Stealth Force with my Stanislawski release. But it works GREAT with my Chappy Boss.
On the other hand, I can fire my Martin Firecat (round wheels) very well with the Stan release.
Oddly enough, I am MORE accurate with my Alpine than I am with my Martin...but that is ME.

[TECbownut]

the answer is relative to the cam style you are shooting. like said a one cam has a solid back wall and most two cams except for the more recent models have mushy back walls. i am a two cam guy and just love them for their adjustablity and tunablity but my next two cam will have solid walls. i like the concept of the solid wall and being in the same exact anchor everytime but have also read that you had better pull into them the same everytime and pull evenly against them everytime or accuracy suffers.....