I was looking over the straightness specs on some of the various premium arrows out there. Some are only .006" - some have only half that much runout. If you were shooting from some sort of mechanical bow that was devoid of human error, just how much difference in group size would there be between an economy .006 arrow and a premium .003 arrow? Thanks. Roskoe.
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RE: Arrow Straightness - How Much Does it Matter?
Zero unless you are competing at a world class level. And even there thehuman factor is greater. In a mechanical set-up probably not much. The arrow occilates as it flys so it's bending as it goes thru the air.
It depends on if the company is giving you true straightness or not.
The biggest issue is how they are diffrent through a dozen that you buy. If 1 arrow is way off it will matter. I think we like to pay for a comfort factor and that's why people buy the .001 arrows for hunting.
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Some manufacturers' .006 will be closer to .003, while others' .003 will be beyond .006. Checking your arrows on a good spinner is a good start. Correct spine is also an important issue.
The real differences will show up when fixed blade broadheads are used.And, as stated, form is a critical issue in any form of archery.
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The real differences will show up when fixed blade broadheads are used.And, as stated, form is a critical issue in any form of archery.
Absolutely.
Arrow straightness is critical. But it is magnified big time with fixed blade heads.
The statement that it doesn't matter for hunting is bunk...it matters more so. Now, a lot of hunters are not as form correct as big time FITA and tourny shooters, not even close, so while it does matter, its more a fact of it doesn't matter to them because they have bigger problems to correct.
To me, shooting premium arrows is just like shooting premium ammunition...its the most important part of the equation because its the part that acctually does the killing. Whats the point of shooting a $1000 bow and skimping the extra $25 for good arrows? Thats right up there with buying a Weatherby and putting a cheap tasco scope on it. Why spend all that money on one thing, and compromise it by buying goods of a lesser quality to go with it? You wouldn't put station wagon tires on a Corvette would you? A properly tuned compound bow will shoot an arrow just as straigth as any other, so if you want to save money, buy a Diamond instead of a BowTech, or a Parker instead of a Mathews...don't skimp on arrows.
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I bought some arrows that were .025 and more than half were "bent", one even wobbled LOL. I bought some others that were .015 and only a couple had any detectable (very, very slight. I may not even have seen it without the index cards) warp. The difference in price between the arrows was about $40 but the price per "usable arrow" eneded up being about the same. As Len said, the difference in manufacturer's stated specs and their actual arrows is what matters. I think I will be sticking with mostly one manufacturer for carbon from now on .
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To me, shooting premium arrows is just like shooting premium ammunition...its the most important part of the equation because its the part that acctually does the killing. Whats the point of shooting a $1000 bow and skimping the extra $25 for good arrows? Thats right up there with buying a Weatherby and putting a cheap tasco scope on it. Why spend all that money on one thing, and compromise it by buying goods of a lesser quality to go with it? You wouldn't put station wagon tires on a Corvette would you? A properly tuned compound bow will shoot an arrow just as straigth as any other, so if you want to save money, buy a Diamond instead of a BowTech, or a Parker instead of a Mathews...don't skimp on arrows.
Agreed!!
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RE: Arrow Straightness - How Much Does it Matter?
brucelanthier has probably hit on the most important reason about why arrow straightness is important. Your wallet. If you buy a dozen arrows that are supposed to be .001 and they are far from that or very inconsistant you throw away a lot of money.
The cost per usable arrows is probably the most important thing to all of us.
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It does matter and if broadheads were screwed onto the front of them and if they were shot out of a machine you would notice.
First I do is cut 2" off the back end of the arrows. Then I cut the rest I need off the front. For my competition arrows I care a lot more about what is happening to the nock end than I do the point end. For hunting arrows both ends matter to me and I cull the bad ones out much more carefully. I install broadheads and I spin test them. If they spin good, great. If not, then I may swap broadheads around to see if I can get a few more that spin good. Then I practice shooting them at different spots of course. At this point all arrows are numbered, and I will actually write down where they hit if I feel I executed a clean shot. I will then cull the ones out that don't shoot well and put field points on those too and keep them for practice.
I usually end up with 8-10 arrows out of a dozen goldtips that are "hunting" arrows and meet my standards which means spin good on both ends, weight within 4 grains of eachother (weight is usually spot on with GT's from my experience), and group consistently.