Hi guys,
I just got a dozen Beeman shafts. First foray into carbons. Anyway, can I glue the inserts in with fletching cement or do I need epoxy?
Sorry if its a dumb question.
Thanks!
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Martin Jaguar Magnum
70 lbs
65% letoff
We use Bohning Power Bond and Goat Tuff at work depending on when the customer is planning on shooting their arrows.
The Power Bond takes a bit longer to dry, but we prefer to use it because it seems to hold quite a bit better.
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I used to use a lot of goat tuff, but it seems a bit brittle and if the point hits something hard the points seem to pull loose. Power bond is great if you have time to let it cure and dry, I also really like Gold Tip Tip Grip. I use the GT more often than anything else.
I use hot melt myself but I don't recommend it to others since it's so easy to damage a carbon shaft if you do it wrong. (Don't heat carbon!) I've learned through lots of trial and error, and at the co$t of $everal arrow$.
I use hot melt myself but I don't recommend it to others since it's so easy to damage a carbon shaft if you do it wrong.
Kodiak and others, please see my below post from a few days ago. I'd like to hear some comments. And thanks Yooper for replying.
Quote:
I am looking at the same dilemma right now. OK, after not using carbons for 10 years, I bought a half dozen tapered carbons. I really don't want to permanently epoxy the inserts if I don't have to. Manufacterer suggests epoxy.
In order to remove the nocks (they are hot glued on an aluminum insert), the manufacturer suggests dipping the nock end in boiling water. They state that this will not effect the carbon. Now water boils at 360 degrees and hot melt melts at about 250 degrees.
So when removing the inserts, why not just heat up a screw in field point put it in the shaft andwait for the glue to meltand just remove it. You wouldn't have to put direct heat on the shaft at all. I have done this with aluminum all the time. Anyone try this.
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Now water boils at 360 degrees and hot melt melts at about 250 degrees.
Dude, water boils around 220 degrees, probly hot enuf to soften the hot melt but not enuff to hurt the arrow.
Anyway, I glued them in using instant fletching cement, crazy glue more or less. Maybe I'm nuts but I fletched 3 with 4" shield cut feathers to try out. Any reason not to use feathers on carbon, besides nobody else does?
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Martin Jaguar Magnum
70 lbs
65% letoff
Now water boils at 360 degrees and hot melt melts at about 250 degrees.
Dude, water boils around 220 degrees, probly hot enuf to soften the hot melt but not enuff to hurt the arrow.
Actually it's 212*F or 100*C, at sea level.
Bob,
For removal; heating the point the way you describe is the way I do it but I'm careful to keep my fingers on the carbon over the insert, if I feel it getting hot I dip it in a handy glass of room temp. water. Warm is okay but if it starts to get uncomfortably warm/hot it gets dunked/cooled. Also, since heat rises, it's wise to hold the shaft tip up while doing this. Never done it with boiling water but I like that idea, I may try it next time.
For inserting; only the glue gets heated and the aluminum insert gets warmed. Never apply direct heat to carbon, and I have a glass of water standing by. As soon as the insert is in, the shaft gets dunked. It's also important not to go overboard with the amount of hot glue.
Glue for carbon inserts
