Most bows will go slightly over their listed max without doing anything more than just cranking down the bolts.
Some bows will need to have both the cable(s) and string twisted shorter - if you can do it without messing up cam timing - to increase the pre-bend in the limbs and make them store a bit more poundage. That also increases the brace height some, which shortens the power stroke and reduces the speed gain, but it's still a net gain in poundage.
Problem with doing that is that it does place more strain on the limbs and will lead to premature limb failure, eventually. Usually only happens after many thousands of shots but sometimes they don't last long at all. The tiny gain in speed isn't worth it, IMO, but some guys will buy a new bowifit'llshoot even 2 fps faster than what they've got. Poor little fellers.
Side note - and the reason for me even posting the above -if your bow is rated a certain max poundage but it doesn't get there when you've got the limb bolts maxed out, then the likelycause isyour cable(s) and stringare too long - out of factory spec-and need to betwisted up or replaced. That'll get the limbs to the amount of prebend and strainthey're designed for so your bow will perform the way it was meant to.
If you really want to maximize your performance, forget about going over the top in poundage. Adjust your dynamic tiller instead. Some guys have a really complicated method for doing that. My way is quick and easy and works just fine - unless you're a world class shooter.
Assume your shooting position. Hold your bow straight out and place a sight pin on a target. Now, draw the bow straight back and watch what the pin does. It will likely pull off the target, either up or down. Usually up, for me.
If it pulls up, then your top limb is overpowering the bottom limb. Take a turn off the top bolt, add a turn to the bottom one, or both.
If it pulls down, then your bottom limb is overpowering the top limb. Take a turn off the bottom limb bolt, add a turn to the top, or both.
Repeat the process until you can draw the bow straight back and the pin will stay relatively close to the target. Now you've got the limbs working together. They're fire at the same speed, which will make the shot smoother and quieter, and very likely increase your arrow speed. They'll be under equal tension at full draw so the bow will be much steadier while holding on target. They'll return to brace at the same time, so recoil, vibration and noise will be reduced, often dramatically. The bow will be much easier to tune, also.
After I check to make sure my axle to axle length and brace height are in factory spec, and set an approximate nocking point, turning the tiller is the first adjustment I make to the bow when I'm doing a serious tune up.
Beginner Tuning Question
